Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi Everybody.

My Morris has its MOT due in a few weeks, and its still running with a taped up points spring! (Kept shorting out against the dizzy when hot and cutting out). Anywhooo, I'd like to fit an electronic ignition. Just wondering if anyone has any recommendations for both the supply of said item and installation.

I'm not sure my 64 Traveller has the original distributor, as the HT leads connect straight out of the distributor cap, not at right angles. Not sure if this would make a difference?

Thanks for any tips in advance.

Webbnuts.

i dont know were to buy as i got mine off the formus but i installed mine yestoday and took about 10 mins, one of the easiest jobs ive done to the car,

tom

Don't worry about your dizzy - it just has a later cap on it. Personally i don't like leccy ign, but many others swear by it! Pertronix seems to be one of the better ones!

I'm very happy with the Magnetronic I fitted to mine some years ago. I'm sure it's available from the usual suppliers (ESM, Bull Motif etc.). It fits under the dizzy cap, either top or side entry. The only thing I had to do was to cut down the brass pivot pin with a junior hacksaw, you may or may not also need to do this as apparently it depends on the distributor. Just keep the bits of brass out of the works if you do.

I've got one of these and couldn't be more pleased with it:

http://simonbbc.com/automotiveshop/elec ... mgb-austin

One problem with electronic ignition, you break down you wont fix it, with a coil and distibutor you have a chance. Basic iginition circuits you will most times fix, Electronic it may be a transistor you wont fix that in the outback. If you want a simple life stick to contact breaker and coil, carry a spare coil, contact breaker and capacitor. Allways a spark then.
Col

You can still carry spare points etc with an electronic conversion kit - just swap them back if it fails.

Electronic ignition is great when its all working, but be prepared to refit the points by the side of the road! The reason is that it will show up any weaknesses in the rest of the ignition system. I had endless problems due to poor quality rotor arms and coils burning out as a result. What was happening was the the extra spark (especially if you increase your plug gap) was sparking to earth effectively through the rotor arm rather than through the plugs. This overloaded the coil and it got too hot too touch and eventually burnt out (old original coils are touher than brand new ones). The cure was to buy a good quality rotor arm. The test is simple, remove the distributor cap, take the king lead from the coil off the distributor cap and hold it with well insulated pliers just above the rotor arm. Check you are clear of all moving parts and then turn the engine over and it should not spark - if it does you have the problem. I now have two coils fitted, one hidden out of site on the inner wing, that I can switch over too and a few spare rotor arms in my glovebox ... just in case.
Al

Is it the 25d distributor i have, or a 45d? How can I find out?

Thanks,

Webbnuts.

Standard for an A Series engine is a 25D

Look on the side of the dizzy - it's marked!

My dizzy says 45 D4. Is this a later unit or something? All I know is the electronic ignition I bought won't fit it! Bah! It doesn't have the adjustment on the vacuum advance that my old 1000 used to have. Would I be better getting an originl 25d or sticking with the 45d? Are there any advantages/disadvantages?

i have a 45d on mine dont know why but it works ,i have magnatronic electronic ignition and its fine .just be careful with rotorarms i get the blue highperformance one from mini spares the one without the rivit .

The 45D is a later unit so presumably is 'better' for that. Have to assume they make improvements.