Morris Minor Owners Club

Can i mount my 1098 to a stand via 4 bolt through the gearbox mounting holes??
Im a bit scared it may break the bolt holes

Thanks

Why would you want to do this ? Far easier/safer to work on it on a bench! I can't imagine the struggle to get it up on this 'stand' in the first place - or to get it back down again later! Bench is dead simple - and nothing will drop on your toes.

My engine stand will fit onto the flywheel end of an A Series engine but you will need four long bolts and some large spacing washers to fit through the arms of the stand. The easiest way to lift the engine onto the stand is to use the block and tackle or hydraulic lift. The advantage of the stand is that you can rotate the engine and you can walk around it to get access to which ever part you are working on.
I found however that I could not get the stand to fit my side valve engine as the gearbox mounting bolts were too close together and also the sump bolts directly to the gearbox. I will have to make up some sort of adapter plate

It's much easier to spin the engine round on the bench! And you have somewhere handy to place your tools/parts/cup of tea...... I've never understood the raison d'etre of these engine stands!

maybe some people havent got benches or strong enough benches to place it on. like me, ill be using a stand when i rebuild mine some time.

Hi, I am about to overhaul my engine and have one of the engine stands described above with 4 adjustable legs. I assume you remove the flywheel. Does it bolt onto the metal mounting plate that gearbox bolts to or do you have to remove that.
What size of bolts were required - I assume they are UNF.
Any info would be greatly appreciated.

As a picture tells a thousand words:

Whilst it may be a 1275 'A' Plus engine the mounting process is the same.
I use 5/16" UNF studding screwed into the rear of the block.
The rear engine plate and the flywheel are removed for this style of mounting.
You can side mount the engine but a fully loaded engine can put a lot of strain on the side of the block so I always give that type of mounting a miss.
Mounting a fully loaded engine just at the rear can cause distortion of the block if left for some time. To overcome any possible distortion I have made a support that goes under the front of the sump or block. The support can be easily removed if required.
The beauty of mounting an engine on a stand is that the engine is secure and can be worked on at any angle and for me is at the right height.

As currently posts will only allow three pictures to be attached here is another.