Morris Minor Owners Club

I found that the repro heater valves currently being sold are not very good-mine lasted just over 2 years before leaking at the piston. I contacted Ashley Hinton as he manufactures a lot of old parts with original tooling and he has informed me that he will soon be doing a batch of the late morris minor valves 88G601 and ADU9102 and will post on ebay as soon as they are available. Anything I have purchased from him was top quality. He sells the earlier much praised brass valves on ebay -seller name-ashleyhintonmgparts2002.
Regards
Declan

Does he make an adapter to change the angle of the valve for a 1275 engine?

I'll ask him. He did inform me that all steel parts will be replaced with stainless steel-so sounds good.
Regards
Declan

Mike,
I passed your question on and he suggests ringing him. It should be just a local call from where you are.
I wrote:
Any idea on pricing? Do you happen to do an adaptor flange to re-align the heater valve to the correct angle when fitting a 1275 head to a morris minor? Could perhaps two of the base flanges from the early valve with a threased stub or similar be used?
Thanks
Declan Burns
Ashley replied:
Hi I think you best call me on this one tel number 01372 456304 work day time
Or 07776188650 mob weekends
Regards Ashley Hinton


Regards
Declan

I gave him a ring and he can sort one out for me -Thanks

Hi Mike,
Could you give details of what he came up with? I'm quite interested in getting in touch with him when I fit my 940 head
CHeers
George

I will let you know when I get mine

Cheers Mike, I look forward to your report
George

Here are the pictures of the adapter I made up. Ashley Hinton supplied two threaded tap bases and I found a length of pipe with the same thread and the nuts, bolts and washers. I turned the top base upside down and threaded the two bases onto the pipe. Fortunately they came out at more or less the correct angle. I fitted the top bolts and assembled the valve before bolting the unit onto the engine.
Snag. There was not enough clearance between the base plates to fit the nuts so I replaced the original bottom plate with a spare thicker plate. An alternative would be to use an O ring or fibre washer between the two parts. A standard rocker box would probably give more clearance than my alloy ribbed one as I had to grind the edges off the valve to get it to fit.
Note the V cut out of the bracket for the stabiliser bar to allow for the tap base.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

If you use the little brass tap - there's no need for an adapter! Rover also do a simple 'stub' that fits the head - but v expensive for some reason!

I know that! I have just taken the brass tap off so that I could refit the valve which was the whole point of the excercise.

can i ask what is up with leaving the valve on the angle,

thanks tom

It fouls on the battery if you use a decent size battery.

oh so it could hit my caravan battery in my car ha

tom

Thanks for posting pictures of that Mike - looks just the ticket.

Though in light of Roy's comments re stub and brass tap I may actually go for the stub (http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=33696) - unless of course there is an issue with having hot water running through the heater matrix all the time...?

I'm sure I've seen a heater valve that fitted in-line on the heater pipe.
It wasn't on a Minor but would be ideal in this situation.

According to the minispares description of the stub that I just linked to the inline valve was introduced to Mini's post 1990...