Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi there,

This might sound a bit stupid, but can I safely put the back of the car on axle stands when on a slight slope? Its not too severe, imagine a driveway outside a garage. Its the only place I can really do this work at the moment.

Having searched the forum for similar articles I have seen that it is suggested to put the stands in front of the front shackle points (of the rear springs) with the load spread with some wood. Is it a very bad idea to put stands under the boot floor (ie between the back of the fuel tank and back of the car)?

Ideally I want to take the whole rear axle off to give it a repaint at the same time as replacing the springs, but if a slope is very dangerous, I could just do one spring at a time, only jacking up one corner at a time.

Any thoughts appreciated, cheers,
George

as long as you get the front wheels wedged with something to stop the car moving then ok but depends how steep the slope. The reason to support infront of the rear shackles is that you can spread the load over the stongest part of the car ,then with a trolly jack under the diff drop the axle down and BACK out from under the car. If you have supported from the rear end you can't get the axel out easily because the stands are in the way,unless you pull it out sideways ,not the best way in or out,Good luck

Jack the car up at the rear, chock the front wheels.
Find a plank of wood a good foot wider than the car (either side). Place the plank under the rear of the car along the boot floor and make sure that it covers the corners where the floor meets the chassis legs. Place an axle stand either end of the plank, just wider than the axle, lower the car onto the plank.Remove road wheels. Undo the rear shackles. and grovel under the car and remove the front location pins, undo the Ubolts and let the spring down. Re fit new spring front pin first, then rear shackles, then bolt the new U bolts into place with associated parts. Once the fittings are lightly tightened, refit the road wheels, raise the car off the plank ,remove it and the stands, and lower to the floor

Thanks kennat and Jonathon, appreciate the comments. With the slope in mind I think I would rather support as far back as possible, so will go as Jonathon says. This should then allow me to withdraw the axle from the back.

I've got two other quick Q's about the rear springs;
- The manual states to loosely do up the shackles and front locating pin, then lower the car so the springs can take the full load and then do the bolts up tight. Is it ok to 'settle' the springs like this on a slope?
- I have JLH poly bushes to fit, which comes with lubricant, is the lubricant applied to all surfaces of the bushes, inside and out, or just the inside?

Sorry, these questions all sound a little silly, but I want to make sure I do it right!

So would the plank be fitted in to the tops of the axle stands

It goes the full width of the rear of the car. Depending on the stands it may fit into the slot of the stand or simply ontop of it

ok thanks

just used to having a full chassis

George, yes do the shackle bolts up hand tight, when on the stands and tighten fully when on the ground.
The poly bushes are best coated inside and out with the lubricant supplied.

Cheers Jonathon, no problem doing it on a slope though? The reason I say that is I wonder if the shackle plates will be at a different angle when taking the weight of the car on a slope rather than the flat...

I've had a car fall off axle stands... so take care when applying huff and puff to the mountings.

In the past I've used my wheel ramps + a spare wheel on top each side and fitted these in front of the spring hanger. The boot floor is also fine (provided it's solid!) but then the stands will get in your way.

If you're on a slope or using axle stands then the front wheels need chocking in a way you can guarantee they wont move.
If the front wheels roll, then the stands can fall over!

Cheers Ray, will make sure I chock the wheels properly and have some old wheels which I will put in the relevant places as a back up to the stands!

George
Having welded in new spring hanger repair plates , just before Chrismas, on my pal's car, I'd strongly recommend removing
the petrol tank.
It's good from a safety point of view and allows more light , general access for welding ,to ensure correct aligment and a good weld.
We put a scaffold plank across the width of the car and roped up a heavy duty wooden pallet ( on edge ) to the rear bumper fixings, so it had no chance of tipping.
Bob

I think George is only planning on fitting his new springs - not doing any welding! But - these jobs do have a habit of growing........

As Roy says I'm not planning on welding, but thanks very much for the advice none the less Bob, but then who knows I may find some serious rot when all is removed! Fingers crossed not as I am no welder!

I like the idea of roping up a pallet to stop it tipping. I've decided I'm going to support the rear, with plank, place the two road wheels (and spare if needed) under the rear as a fail safe and then remove the axle from the side with the aid of my old skateboard

George,

After you have the car on axle stands, check the car thoroughly. Rock the car a bit to simulate a strong wind... this will give you a bit more confidence. Better for it to fall under test... If at all you are not happy, support it a bit more, it won't hurt to have too much support. I don't know whether you can make out the slop on my drive, I've used axle stands on that slope. Just make sure like others have said the stands sit properly on the floor and the front wheels are chocked.

Thanks Dean. I hate the idea of rocking the car and inducing a fall, but you're quite right better to fall in a test than on me! Having confidence in the support will make the job that much more enjoyable too...

GeorgeHurst wrote: Having confidence in the support will make the job that much more enjoyable too...

Of course.


Also remember to keep checking during the job too. Keep an eye on the axle stands, do they still sit flat on the floor are all the supports still securely in place on the body work where you originally put them. Climb out from underneath after doing a bit of banging... check everything, rock the car again, check the chocking of the front wheels. It's so easy to get distracted when working and forget things can move. Play safe as they say and you'll be fine.

Right on, will do