Morris Minor Owners Club

I hate rubbing down (anything) in prep for refinishing but I need to strip old varnish (flaky in some areas - stuck like glue in others) from the woodwork on Betty. How is it best removed - laborious rubing with sandpaper or attack it with Nitromores ??

I wood try cabinet scrapers, metal scrapers with a sharp edge that sort of shaves off the old varnish especailly good if there are many layers. I found them really good on my traveller that had layers and layers of dark polyureathane, it brought it back to bare wood that only needing a light sanding afterwards.

Thanks David - did you do this straight onto the varnish or soften it up with anything first?

hi
you can also use freshly cut glass to the same effect but have to be careful of sharp edges cabinet scrapers have to be kept sharp dont put anything on varnish first
Ian

Yes - I believe the traditional way is with glass! I used scrapers - the sort you get in Poundland - a selection of different sizes in a pack! Best to keep the Nitromors away - but a hot air paint stripper gun helps!

Just something to bear in mind if you use a cabinet scraper; to keep it working properly you need to maintain a burr on the edge. Also once you're getting down to the wood it's best to go 'with' the grain if possible (like stroking a cat from head to tail rather than tail to head). Going against the grain can tear the wood, especially if it's damp.

To clarify for anyone not too familiar with the terminology: I think there are at least two different types of scraper being referred to in this thread: Roy's poundland set are probably the familiar flat, sharp blade with a handle, as used with a blowlamp or for stripping wallpaper, but I think others are recommending the type where a flexible steel blade is held either in the hands or a jig and drawn, rather than pushed, over the wood. The first sort need to be sharp, the second sort (cabinet scrapers) need to have a burr formed on their edge. There are various proprietary sorts - as ever, see:

Axminster Power Tools

for some ways to spend lots of money.

Kevin

When doing this type of thing on boats I've used a skarsten scraper which looked very much like this;
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Which is no doubt a cheap copy.
Works very well but note what was said about going with the grain and damp wood.

Thanks all for the input - I know what I'm looking for tool wise now so will be ready to give it a go when the weather picks up a bit

The scrapers are good for the harder to reach bits of wood, for example near the panel work, but what I used the last few times to rub down the traveller wood was a detail sander ( a small electric sander, handy for the smallish size of the wood pieces on the traveller). Mask up the painted ali panels between the wood, with masking tape and paper, also protect the B pillar. Remove the rear wings to make sanding the rear wood arches easier.

On the detail sander, i start with 80 grit, then 120, finishing with 180/or 240 and this seems to give a nice finish for the wood stain I use (Sikkens) which goes on after the clear cuprinol has dried. Don't use Nitromors unless you want to strip your paint as well!

Thanks John - My grumpy neighbours don't like me using power tools outside cause it blows dust on their house

They're gonna have a shock when I start angle grinding the rusty bits though

A detail sander is quite a small, not too noisy sander and you can attach a hose to the back and run it to your vacuum to suck up the dust.

Cheers - I'll look into that option mate

I removed Benny's varnish with a cabinet scraper, with a decent burr, you shouldnt need much (any?!) sandpapering, I think its by far the quickest and "nicest" (no noise, no dust) way of prep'ing the wood. It helps if you develop your "hold" (the scraper should have a slight bow in it) and how much pressure to use. Good point made above about going with the grain!.
Good luck, Mike.

Yes, I use a scraper to get into areas where the detail sander cant get easily. I like to apply wood bleach to those areas, helps remove the old coating with no dust and lightens the wood at the same time. I think a combination of these techniques is the way to go.

for stains in the woodwork avoid bleaches if possible as this over the years destroys the cell structure

use lemon juice instead, much kinder and cheaper

If you're using a cabinet scraper for hours it would be worth considering buying a holder, which incorporates a screw to alter the amount of bow, but it also saves your fingertips from feeling as if you've undergone a form of torture.

i am a joiner and i lnow the feeling well

a good sharpened scraper will take a very thin shaving off the ash

and you can get a very good finish afterwards by burnishing the timber with the shavings, scrunch them in your hand and rub the shavings over the ash and it will produce a mirror finish

Good tip there Dennis for burnishing. I was gonna ask about where the wood seemed darker but that has been answered also - Thanks all

A highly burnished surface will absorb less finish, whether that's oil or a thinned first coat of varnish.