Morris Minor Owners Club

I'm working on a friends 54 moggy, so he can sell it. I just got the engine running today, but found that there is no reverse gear. Not being familiar with Minors I don't know where it should be, although I can shift the car into five different gears, none of which is reverse. From reading this web site I have the idea that reverse should be to the right and down.

When I get the motor running more smoothly and reverse gear sorted out the brakes need attention. The brake pedal goes down to the floor and stays there, and it seems like the brakes are hanging up because the car is very hard to push.

I'd appreciate any advice on the reverse situation and the brakes. Thanks.

I'm working on a friends 54 moggy, so he can sell it. I just got the engine running today, but found that there is no reverse gear. Not being familiar with Minors I don't know where it should be, although I can shift the car into five different gears, none of which is reverse. From reading this web site I have the idea that reverse should be to the right and down.

If it's actually got 5 forward gears then it's had a different gearbox fitted - Minors only ever had a 4 speed box. If that's the case then I've no idea where reverse would be but Ford is the most common 5-speed that folks fit if that helps.

As for the brakes, it sounds like they're going to need a complete overhaul, I'd suggest taking each of the drums off to free them off first. Has it actually got brake fluid in the master cylinder? Even so, the pedal should spring back unless there's something amiss in the master cylinder.

Can't help with finding reverse i'm afraid - if it's not to the right and back.
Brakes - as above - they are going to need a COMPLETE overhaul - all drums off - new shoes and cylinders, very probably new brake lines too. Likely some of the cylinders are leaking - and taht's why the pedal goes to the floor. £100 and a couple of days work should sort it - provided the master cylinder itself is ok.

A 1954 Series II Minor should have an 803cc engine and gearbox, identifiable by the canister oil filter screwed onto the side of the engine and the long gear lever. However the original engine and gearbox (and diff) are frequently discarded and replaced with a more powerful unit. Before going into detail on repairs it would help if you could identify the running gear. The 948 engine has 950 cast into the side of the block and a smooth case box with a short vertical lever. The 1098 engine has a tag on the side of the block with 1100 on it. The gearbox has a ribbed casing and vertical lever. In all cases reverse is towards you and down. There is no synchro on 1st or reverse.
If the car has been standing for a prolonged time then the braking system will need a complete strip down and overhaul as a matter of safety.
If you are going to give the car a complete overhaul the I recommend that you but a BMC workshop manual which includes a section on Series IIs. There was one in the free section yesterday.

If you do still have the original SII gearbox fitted (it has a really long, 'magic wand' gear lever , reverse is to the far right and down (next to 4th gear), but what nobody has mentioned is that you need to lift the gear lever in order to be able to move it over into the reverse gate. Good luck!

Thanks for letting me know about the reverse gate, no problems with shifting now. I have only tested the gears by rocking the car with slight clutch engagement, so probably only have four forward gears.

In terms of the brakes, where is the access to fill the master cylinder? I expected to see it under the bonnet, but there is very little in there besides the engine. They surely would have had room to place it somewhere in that vicinity!

The car does have a wand type shifter and a canister oil filter on the drivers side of the engine, so it must be an 803. The tag near the front of the engine, on the drivers side reads 249639.

I believe the Master cylinder is located under the floor, in the drivers side footwell. Just to this side of the gearbox, you will see the filler plug. Hope the work goes well generally.

Yes! Under the floor - with cap sitting through. But do check for leaks before wasting fluid by filling up the master.

Start on the brakes by jacking one wheel up at a time and turning it to find out which brakes are sticking. Don't forget to support the car on axle stands and release the handbrake when you check the back brakes.

The ones that aren't sticking ON - will be stuck OFF! Strip all 4 and rebuild them properly - you can't take risks with brakes.

After jacking the car up, I found that both rear wheels that are dragging. The front wheels also drag but nothing like the rear. I know the whole brake system needs to be checked out and brought up to spec before the car heads out on the road.

The sticking rear brakes are often caused by the handbrake cables sticking. Disconnect the cables from the brake cylinder levers, then turn the drums until you can release the adjusters and you should then be able to dismantle the back brakes.

Thanks Mike,
I took the hand brake cables off and backed off the adjuster nut. The wheels turn now, but I can't get the two screws off holding on the brake drum. The screws have a hex hole in them, and I have a hex wrench that fits them, but I get the idea I will bust off the wrench before the screw comes free. Any suggestions here?

Non standard screws fitted - but actually hex socket is an improvement over original crosshead screwdriver. Squirt in release oil - apply some heat (gas blow torch) - put the hex key in and bang it with a hammer! If all else fails - drill the heads off. They don't need to be done up tight - they don't even NEED to be there! A spot of copperslip on the threads when you refit them will help in future.

The correct set screws have a cross head but as Roy says the hex head is an improvement. Where can I find some? It should be noted that the screws are brake drum retaining screws and not tightening screws. When replacing the drums they should be tightened using a couple of wheel nuts to pull them on square and then the set screws replaced to hold them in position. It is evident from the condition of the cross head that many people tighten the drum using the set screws.
Whilst you have the drums off you will need to check that the wheel cylinders are not sticking. You will need to fill the master cylinder with brake fluid, bleed the air out of the system and with one drum removed at a time get someone to gently press the brake pedal whilst you check that the cylinders are working. Also check for signs of fluid leaking from the cylinders.

If it's been standing for any length of time - they will be stuck.