Morris Minor Owners Club

Can anybody give me some advise on how best to fit the gutter to the traveler roof.

Are you using the old stuff or have you got 2 new lenghts

needle nose pliers to hold the pin to start with, then a drift to knock it home and a bit of wood to roll the gutter over when finishing

I Have 2 new lengths purchased from ESM

Do you start at the door and work backwards? How do you get round the rear corner? Should I make drain holes at the rear corner? Should the two lengths but up in the middle at the back or should their be a gap?

Nice limo 8009STEVE.<br><br>

Got a feeling that the suppliers just send something like 17 foot of guttering which is what is needed..in 2 lengths. BUT dosent work out right!! If you do the 2 sides your left with 2 pieces to do the back part, so you either have to buy another piece for the back or have a join in the middle. I have the same problem but from another supplier, will probably do it with the join in the middle and cover the join somehow

Start at the door and work backwards. You will have to cut a notch to clear the cab roof seal.

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Cut the trim as shown here to go around the corner at the rear. This forms a drain channel as well as making it easier to go around the corner. It helps a lot if you can warm the trim with a blow totch (carefully) !!

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The 2 halves join in the middle directly above the rear doors. The factory never sealed this area - they were just cut and butted up closely.

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All these pics are taken on an original car which has not had the wood or guttering touched since it was built....

With the new guttering supplied, theres no way you can do it like that...Im not sure how flexible it is either....seems rather rigid to me! Haven't got round to doing mine yet, going to have to think about it for a while first

timmo wrote:If you do the 2 sides your left with 2 pieces to do the back part, so you either have to buy another piece for the back or have a join in the middle.

I'm not sure I understand this bit timmo. If you start at both front doors with each piece they should run continuosly to the middle of the rear? What am I mising? Sorry

as far as i can see..they supply you with the correct length of guttering..but in 2 equal lengths...so yes you will have a join in the middle of the rear..IF, you can get it to bend round the rear corners..But it looks too rigid to me to do that. Personaly i would have tought it would have been better to supply 2 lengths to do both sides, then another length to do the rear

The new lengths of guttering are normally 4-5" over length.
As Rich says start at the B post and notch the guttering as suggested.Fix a length of masking tape along the side and the rear of the rood , just above the top egde of the new guttering, mark the position of the existing foof nails, or new nails if starting from scratch, this will ensure that you do not drill the guttering pin positions over the original fixings. I always pre drill the holes for the tacks (which are dipped in soap or varnish/wax before fixing) and get the side length fixed into place before cutting two parallel lines into the lower edge of the guttering, do not cut too far in, this will allow you to 'ease the guttering around the corner, once this bend is established
drill and tack the guttering into place, then forn the radius to take the remainder of the guttering to the centre of the rear doors, do not cut this to length until you have done the same on the opposite side.
Cut the two guttering lengths to butt together and finish of tacking into position.
I use an 8" length of hard wood layed onto the top of the guttering then gently work the length of this ,tapping over the gutter. Do not go right to the end of the wood as this might form a dent into the aluminium, Go the full length of the side then use a smaller piece of soft wood to form the rear corners. I normally take three passes at each side to gently form the top of the gutter
Once happy with the result, you will need to check the roof for any dents, and skim this with filler directly onto the bare alloy , not the paint, once done etch prime and prime the bare aluminium and filler, run a smidge of seam sealer along the joint of the gutter and roof then finish paint

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Sorry pics out of sequence, but you get the idea

I'm luvvin that Trav Jono ;-)

timmo, Yes, I see what you are saying now. As I said, it helps to warm it up first. Good luck with the fitting

I had to shape the length of gutter first above the rear door.Ihad cut a piece of MDF and pulled the alloy around it.Then buff out the small section at the corner with a flap disk.Next the tricky bit.You have to bend the corner bothways,as the rear of the car slopes forward.Leave a small amount at both ends that can be trimmed later.Remember and pre drill for the tacks.(you might have to crush the heads of these nails so that they are a bit thinner).
I pinned both ends of the lond edge first and used a straight edge to hold the gutter true and then pinned the rest from there.
Then slowly and evenly tap the flap of the trim over the nail heads with a solid piece of hard wood,now you can go back and dress the corner with a file.
There is a clip of mine on this video about 26 minutes in.



I hope you can understand my rambeling,just go slowly and you'll be fine.
Good luck.

Jonathon..how do you finish off the 2 ends where they butt together? ans is that in the middle of the rear?

Here ya' go Rich, some more, plus another trav gutter and the almost finished article.

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Oh look - A black one, just like mine (not) ;-)

One day !

Still saving up, although Christmas put a dent in that pot
Lottery not going so well either - oh well, as you say - one day

Oh look - A black one, just like mine (not)

But it has only got 4 wheels.