Morris Minor Owners Club

hello there
i have recently swapped my original 1098 engine for a 1275 midget engine (dont worry i have a brake upgrade as well) and am now finding there to be quite a significant amount of axle tramp (when i pulled away very agressively it felt like the whole car was flexing and shaking). i guess this is to be expected with and increase in power but still could anyone recommend a way to reduce or even eliminate it completely. im pretty sure i didnt get this level of tramping when the engine was in the midget. i dont know what sort of condition the rear shock absorbers are in or the leaf springs. any help is greatly appreciated
thanks

Did you fit poly bushes to the rear springs and maybe also poly pads too? Will give better axle location. If you are still using the standard diff why not try a 3.9 or 3.7 this will also help - just trying to think of the cheaper options first before you get into expensive mods. bmc will probably recommend filling the dampers with 40 grade oil and possibly fitting traveller 7 leaf springs

uprated rear shocks will make some assistance but that's only helping the symptoms, not the cause.
The tramping happens because the axle 'winds up' on the leaf spring, and then unwinds when a wheel lifts, and goes into a nasty resonance.
Therefore the things that affect the 'wind up' are most important.
Starting at the front, the engine tie-bar is most crucial (check it's fitted and not broken), and then engine + gearbox mounts need to be good.
At the rear, the condition of the leaf springs will make a difference - stiffer springs will behave better than soft ones regarding tramp reduction.
If everything is ok, then you need to consider 'upgrades' which can start as simple as uprated leaf springs, or other items like anti-tramp bars (which can work really well and depending on which type, they can help reduce cornering body roll)

Some will say that axle tramp is easily induced in a Minor, however, I have had a 1275 engine in 2 Minors now and I havn't suffered with axle tramp. As said above, check the condition of engine and gearbox mounts, also back axle alignment (does it do it in reverse?) and also was the clutch new or could it be worn / contaminated ??

wow very quick reply guys thanks, i have read BMC's post on upgrading to the 40 grade oil and was thinking of doing that anyway.
and ray when you say tie bar is this the same thing as the engine steady bar because that has been left off at the moment due to there not being enough thread on the nearest stud.
i havent tried it in reverse may give it a go, the clutch was new possibly 7 years ago and in that time time only a couple hundred miles, i did have a stuck clutch due to the engine being in storage for so long, i think it is an uprated diaphragm competition clutch ( very stiff and operated over a small distance)
cheers

the engine steady bar because that has been left off at the moment due to there not being enough thread on the nearest stud.

I think there lies you answer!

The clutch will not be helping the issue either - it is possible to increase the pedal leverage ratio by redrilling the hole/s on the intermediate link pivot thingy.

Don't let it tramp! Ease off -or it WILL snap a half-shaft!
As suggested already - 7 leaf Traveller springs are much better at resisting tramp - but absence of that tie-bar will be allowing the engine assembly to 'wind up' - you need to transfer the longer stud from the 1098 engine.

thanks very much guys i honestly in a million years would never of considered the engine steady bar. i think ill go round double checking that everything is tight now.
cheers

Have you got a manual or hydraulic, spring or diaphram clutch?

ive got a manual (linkage) diaphragm clutch, i think its getting less stiff with use or im getting used to it

Remove the clutch relay shaft and weld on a one inch extension to the arm that attaches to the clutch pedal and re drill the hole. This will restore the weight and pedal movement to normal.