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Trying to id my carburettor?
Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:17 pm
by AnimalJack
I was trying to order a carb rebuild kit today (for the traveller )- but when I gave the code on the dash pot (AUC 8103)and then the other on the reservoir (AUD 9203) apparently they didnt match the usual Morris Minor codes ?- so I am hoping someone could advise me on what Ive got here. The engine is a 1275 -so the carb was probably changed - but it looks very similar to the one on my van -which I know is standard Morris type - and its definately not the larger Marina type .............Maybe Im not looking at the right serial No.- is there another way of telling which one it is ? Cheers.
Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:18 pm
by MColes
Got any photos?
Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:35 pm
by bmcecosse
A 1275 really needs the larger carb - otherwise not much point having it! Money would be better spent getting an HIF38 or even better - an HIF 44 and an MG Metro inlet manifold!
The numbers you list are just part numbers for parts of the carb - they don't ID the carb - although they are parts from the right-hand carb (1.25") - of a twin carb set!
This is far too small a carb to make best use of a 1275 engine.
Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 11:40 pm
by AnimalJack
Cheers ....... if I used an Mg Metro .I would need to change the exhaust system as well though wouldnt I ..............is there a carb I could use that would improve things ( a bit then )- but not require a new Manifold and all the rest..........
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 1:40 am
by mike.perry
AUC 8103 is the damper piston for an H2, HS2, HS4, HS6 or HIF6 carb so the number does not identify the carb. I cannot find AUD 9203 in the reference catalogue.
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 8:56 am
by RobThomas
SU casting numbers rather than part numbers. Those numbers represent the basic part prior to any machining to make them suitable for a particular application.
They are faaaaairly generaic once you have worked out which size carb it is. Measure the diameter of the hole on the engine side of the carb (1 and 1/8th inch =H1, 1 and 1/4 [2/8ths] =H2 etc) and it is H if the float chamber is solid to the body or maybe HS if it is a flat-topped float chamber.
Where in Sth Wales are you? I'm in Llantwit Major
Rob 01446 795489
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 9:13 am
by bmcecosse
It's an HS 2 - as I said already - right hand carb from a twin-set! The real advantage of a carb change comes from eliminating the dreaded 'hot spot' - so an MG Metro inlet and an HIF 38 are the way to go. Just cut the old inlet off your manifold and keep using the exhaust part. Not ideal - but it will work until you sort out something more efficient!
However - if you are happy with the way the car runs performance wise - that carb is probably best bet for fuel economy. Why do you want to 'overhaul' it ? What's wrong with it ?
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 6:34 pm
by AnimalJack
theres not alot wrong with it apart from the reservoir weeping a bit - but its been on there a long time and I try and keep on top of jobs like that through the winter as in the summer I never get time.........sorry to be a bit thick - but could you explain cutting off the manifold at the inlet.......would that involve blanking off the cut part with a plate - or have I got confused again

Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 7:48 pm
by linearaudio
No need for a blanking plate- you sacrifice the inlet portion of the manifold by chopping it off with an angle grinder, or hacksaw if you are really bored! "dress" the cut through wall back to a smooth profile blending what was the inner wall of the inlet manifold into the outer wall of the exhaust bit. Trial and error comes into it a bit, which is why my spare one is still half finished!
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 10:07 pm
by AnimalJack
I think Im starting to get it !..... do you mean sort of like this -
my detailed artwork below !

....-do you need to seal it at all then ?<br>

<br>
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 10:15 pm
by bmcecosse
No - you make sure the cut is in the inlet section - which you will throw away - and then dress up the remaining exhaust section to give enough clearance for the alloy inlet manifold without it touching. These carbs don't really need much 'overhauling' - where is the reservoir leaking ? If the little pipe at the base - maybe it just needs a gentle tightening!
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 10:20 pm
by linearaudio
AnimalJack wrote:I think Im starting to get it !..... do you mean sort of like this -
my detailed artwork below !

....-do you need to seal it at all then ?<br>

<br>
NO!! If you need to seal it then you've cut in too far! But by cutting through the tubular section of the inlet manifold initially, you will soon see what and how much to remove. Here's a quick picture of mine, later Metro manifold, but same idea. (And yes those are bananas-its the kitchen worktop!)<br>

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Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 10:26 pm
by bmcecosse
Crikey - brave man - takes car parts into the house..........

Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 10:32 pm
by AnimalJack
AAAAHHH RIGHT ! I ve got it now, Cheers......
(sometimes it takes me a while -but I usualy get there in the end -with a bit of help !)
.......I will have a careful check around the carb seals tomorrow - Thanks again
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 10:37 pm
by AnimalJack
I think you better watch this - it really is a true story -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b91iJMd1Nio
Posted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 8:05 am
by RobThomas
Ends up looking like....<br>

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