Camshaft gear nut

Post by **SvMinor** » Thu Nov 12, 2009 11:51 pm

Does anyone know what size socket is needed to remove the cam gear nut.I need to remove the front engine plate to fit a new gasket(while im doing the bearings)Does it loosen anticlockwise.Ive looked at Biggingers spanner sizes post above and I dont see it listed.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 9:16 am

I think 1 5/16" - the largest socket in my set fits it ! Some have been known to give it a wallop with a hammer and chisel!

May as well fit a new timing chain while in there - and if the bottom sprocket 'teeth' are very sharp - change it too. If you have any plans to upgrade the engine - this is the chance to fit an AEA630 camshaft - the one from the 1098 engine.

Post by **SvMinor** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:09 am

Roy is that ( 1 5/16 ) roughly 32mm only af size

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 4:02 pm

May be nearer 33 or 34 mm if going metric - in fact my largest socket is 3/4 Whit - and fits fine - but I think if you put a vernier on the nut - it will be 1 5/16" = 33.34mm.
I've 'borrowed' David53s picture to show how else it can be removed! <br>

<br>
I assume you know about lining up the dots etc -and then NOT moving the cam until you put it back together again ?

Post by **SvMinor** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 6:27 pm

I already took the old crank out.and tried to loosen the cam gear nut with a hammer an chisel.
The cam moved when I hit the nut.am I in the s@%t now.this is why I asked how to remove nut without cam moving.

linearaudio · Post by **linearaudio** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 6:44 pm

If it were me, I would drop the crank back in, refit the timing chain, lock the crank with a wooden block and "persuade" the nut with a chisel! No way you are going to stop the cam turning otherwise, unless you can wedge a lump of wood between the lobes and the block!

PS: you didn't actually mention wanting to know how to stop the cam turning!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 7:41 pm

Yes -the normal way is to loosen it while the chain is till attached! You may be able to grip the cam inside the block with stillsons - just don't grip it on the lobes! As la says - probably best to drop the crank back in - but I suspect it may be on it's way to BM by now!!

Post by **SvMinor** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 9:43 pm

Got the nut off ,used a 33mil socket,leaned on the engine and got my wife to use a long pole on the end of the ratchet,worked a treat!

on the other hand I was using 2 spanners to remove the toothed gear and it broke,so I had to break the rest of it,(it wouldnt come loose)then I used a hammer and chisel to get the last piece off, and it slipped and hit the threaded end of the camshaft,S@#T!!!

Can I use a tap and die to re thread the end of the camshaft?

Stupido!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 9:49 pm

Doubt you will get a suitable die (and certainly it's not a tap!) - probably just use a swiss file and carefully ease away the damage.

linearaudio · Post by **linearaudio** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:03 pm

Time for an MG Metro cam

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:04 pm

One just sold on ebay - £47!!!!!!!!! Plus £8 post.

Post by **les** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:07 pm

You could use the nut and cut 4 equal spaced cuts into the thread and use this as a die nut. It will not be as hard as a proper die but may work.

Post by **SvMinor** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:27 pm

Les what you mean?cut across the threads, like inside the nut from front of the nut to the back of it???

Post by **les** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:41 pm

Yes that's it, if you can then get it started on the thread, carefully tighten then back off/tighten/back off etc etc then if the damage is not too great you may get away with it, perhaps use a little oil. You will of course then need to buy a new nut to replace the original!

Post by **SvMinor** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:49 pm

Ok Thanks Les, Ill try that and see how it goes.

linearaudio · Post by **linearaudio** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 12:34 pm

Get a junior hacksaw, and use that at various angles to remove as much burred material as possible first, or you will just get a mooshed thread on both bits-the nut is soft & the cam thread is hard! A triangular "needle" file would be good to dress the thread a bit once it is roughly right shape- or go for another cam-someone must have a spare lurking!

Post by **SvMinor** » Sun Nov 15, 2009 12:13 pm

Got a lend of a file from an auto spark(who works beside me)for fixing damaged threads,

5 minutes this morning and the threads are good as new and the nut is back on the end of the cam,

Yippeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Nov 15, 2009 1:44 pm

Ahh - I had just looked out a 948 cam and a nut for you! I don't have a camshaft sprocket - sorry - at least not the early type with rubber rings. The 'better' cams I have are both for spider drive - so would need appropriate pump - I'm guessing you don't want to go that route?

Post by **SvMinor** » Sun Nov 15, 2009 10:35 pm

Thanks Roy but ill stick to the 948 since I already bought the pump.
Thanks for the thought.

Got most of the engine back together,Inc new gaskets, although I was sent the Wrong thrust washers, so couldnt fit the sump!Disapointing!

I was reading the manual and I get the impression it matters which way the dizzy drive is fitted,
If its in wrong does this upset the timing?

Whats involved in getting the timing right?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Nov 16, 2009 8:16 am

What is wrong with the thrust washers ? Are they the larger ones for a 1275 ? When you do get the new ones make absolutely sure you put them in the right way round! And hold them in place with some grease till you get the cap on. Of course - absolute cleanliness when assembling the crank - and flush the oil ways in the crank with solvent(carb cleaner from Poundshop is good) and probe with pipe-cleaners and/or welding wire to chase out any grit left from the regrind. Assemble the bearings with lashings of oil - and then tighten them one by one, checking the crank is free to turn easy after each one is tightened - then finally torque them up - again check after each bearing is torqued.
Dizzy drive - well, best to put it in as per manual - but it's not critical - you will need to set up the timing anyway. Doing as per manual ensures the dizzy sits in a position where the clips/vacuum unit etc don't foul on other bits and bobs!