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Main bearings New Pics

Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 8:02 pm
by SvMinor
Got the engine out today,started to strip it down and got the main and big end bearings off.
Heres a few more pics of them and the crankshaft and also the clutch,
does the clutch look worn enought to warrant replacement,(How can you tell when clutch is worn).
I ran my finger nail across the crank,there doesnt seem to be much if any scoring to it,but where the black line is visable it feels different to the shiny smooth part,(no ridge though)<br>Image<br><br>Image<br><br>Image<br><br>Image<br><br>Image<br><br>Image<br>

Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 8:55 pm
by d_harris
IMHO theres plenty of meat left on that clutch plate. However I take the view that whenever the egine and box are split it makes sense to replace the clutch - save having to do a special job!

Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 8:59 pm
by bmcecosse
I would keep the clutch plate! Your crank is probably 'marginal' - and you don't show us the big-ends ? I would certainly fit a new oil pump.

Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 8:59 pm
by SvMinor
Thanks Dan,For the clutch to be badly worn, do the plates on bothsides have to be worn down flush with the rivets.

Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:04 pm
by SvMinor
bmcecosse wrote:you don't show us the big-ends ?.
What do you mean Roy.
I thought The 1 at front near radiator is Big End
1 in centre is centre Main
1 nearest gearbox is other big end
Is this wrong?

Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:19 pm
by SvMinor
The pics I posted are just the Main bearings?
Big end are they the Piston bearings?

Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:31 pm
by d_harris
Mark=1960=2=door=saloon wrote:Thanks Dan,For the clutch to be badly worn, do the plates on bothsides have to be worn down flush with the rivets.
Basicly, yes

Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:17 pm
by bmcecosse
The 'big ends' are the larger ends of the connecting rods - the 'little ends' are at the gudgeon pins - in the pistons. And yes - what you have shown us so far - are the main bearings!
Friction material worn on either side of the clutch plate will condemn it! look also at the carbon thrust bearing - it may need to be replaced.

Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:38 pm
by SvMinor
The crankshaft with all bearings removed.
The bearings are badly worn in places,a couple have pieces missing.The first pic of the crank is scored,the big end bearings (grey ones)have 12A630 stamped on the back.
And the copper Main bearings have AEA471 stamped on the back.
Do these Numbers Mean anything to anyone.

Do these numbers mean standard bearings.

I was going to replace the crank and bearings,Can I keep the pistons without having to change them.

I will fit a new oil pump also.
<br>Image<br><br>Image<br><br>Image<br><br>Image<br><br>Image<br><br>Image<br>

Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 10:06 pm
by bmcecosse
Ahh -right - they are quite worn - it does need a cranbkshaft regrind and new oversize shells. On the back of each shell you should find 'STD' stamped = standard size. But the regrind will take metal off the crank - and so thicker oversize shells will be required. They go in 10 thou steps - usually the machine shop that grinds the crank will supply the new shells.
Yes - you keep the pistons - provided it wasn't burning excessive oil ?? You absolutely MUST put the big-end caps back on the same con-rods they came off - hopefully you marked them - or they were already marked ! And -they must go on right way round -with the little tabs on the same side.

Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 10:18 pm
by SvMinor
Yea I marked each 1 so I know which rod they go on and what way round they go.
i cant see any standard marks on them.but on the big end bearings it has
G inside a circle then LL then AL inside a circle all in a row.
then 12A630 underneath

Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 10:25 pm
by bmcecosse
G is for Glacier - I used to make these bearings - in Kilmarnock! Oversize bearings carry markings like '10' or '20' - to indicate how much oversize they are - so no marks will be std .
Any progress with the crankshaft with the 803/948 markings ?

Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 10:58 pm
by SvMinor
The 803/948 supposed crank was a 998 of something else not a minor.
Someone wrote on box with a marker 803/948,The fella sellin it is 100% He didnt sell me it cause it was wrong.
Although if it had of suited it was cheap Brand New not recon,including full set of new bearings.
Shame

Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 11:17 pm
by bmcecosse
If 998 - it was a Mini crank! So - do you have someone lined up to regrind the crank ?

Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 7:56 am
by SvMinor
gonna try a firm in belfast called OD Cars.The fella that has the crank recommended them.
He said £15-£20 a journal.might just cost same to replace the crank

Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:52 am
by bmcecosse
That's a LOT! Usually get a complete crank ground for ~ £50/£60. Keep looking! Note - Bull Motif will do an excahnge crank - complete with bearings - for £80 plus the carriage both ways of course - but still a MUCH better deal. http://www.morrisminorspares.net/shop_item.php?ID=1983

Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 10:03 am
by SvMinor
yeah thats who I was gonna get it from.

Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 1:04 pm
by SvMinor
OD cars Belfast engine reconditioning.£120/£140 to regrind my crank plus bearings.
Ordered 1 from bull motif this morning.

Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 5:42 pm
by MarkyB
Take a close look a the thrust bearings either side of the centre main.
Some of the big end wear looks very one sided.
Did the engine slow down a lot when the clutch was depressed?

Don't forget to check that the oil filter is all there.
Your crank journals are quite scratched which suggests contaminated oil.

Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 7:23 pm
by SvMinor
Im not sure if it did.Why would the car slow down and why do you mention the wear being 1 sided,What does this suggest MarkyB