Morris Minor Owners Club

I have removed the timing cover (pulled the whole grill off with radiator installed - much easier to get at things!) Than ks for the tip about undoing the pulley nut by turning engine over - worked brilliantly



I think I know why I had an oil leak! The mount for the felt seal has actually seperated from the timing cover, so goodness knows what it was doing at high revs



I have a mini cover and rubber seal, so before I re-assemble can someone confirm the oil thrower is on right way round? I think it is according to the parts diagram



Now back together, and I am aware I should mount the pulley and tighten before I redo the cover bolts. Any other tips?

OK have had a trial fit and sadly the original thrower will not fit behind the new mini cover The new cover is fractionally shallower than the original plus the original had a recess for the seal which the mini one doesn't. I have found a later oil thrower which are flatter than the earlier ones:



I have also decided I will establish TDC and paint on marks for TDC and 3 and 5 degrees below TDC on the new cover

Nice pictures John, does your garage double as a photographic studio?

Yes - I did say before that you would probably need a later type oil thrower. You could of course just file/buff your old one down. Never seen a water pump with the drive flange removed ! How/why did you do that ?? Maybe that's the standard form with an 803 pump - I'm not familiar with them. The 'chiseled' nut on the camshaft is great! Will probably have caused some of the perfectionists on here to faint though. If that's a 'corrugated' bypass hose on the pump (the little one) you should seize the opportunity to change it to a nice straight thick-wall pipe - to avoid future disappointent.

Thanks for the compliment MarkyB but it's David not John

BMC, The flange on the water pump was getting in the way of the socket to remove the cover bolts - easy to remove. just one bolt on the end of the shaft. When you buy an 803 pump it has no flange fitted.

And don't worry it wasn't me that chiselled that nut - was done by someone else in the last 56 years.....prob should have replaced it but anyway...

And OK I'll ask - why is the concertina hose a problem????

why is the concertina hose a problem

The concertina hoses have been known to perish quicker than the straight pipes as the rubber is thinner. On the plus side you can replace them without having to remove the pump though.

Don't worry about the bm's comment, unlike me he likes his nuts to be abused!!

Thanks for the compliment MarkyB but it's David not John

Doh! no idea how I got that wrong, sorry.

Hmm, think I have a straight one somewhere. Might change it then while I can get at the pump so easily

Thanks for the suggestion New bypass hose fitted and getting ready to put the radiator and grille back and see if my timing cover is oil tight!



By the way while I had the water pump off I pumped some grease into the the hole where that large screw goes in on the left....I presume that was correct? Nothing in the lubrication chart about it

A big nut like that without a chisel mark is like a roast dinner without the spuds.

I'm glad you didnt replace it, it would have somehow seemed wrong.

Only very early water pumps have a grease point there - hopefully you didn't over-do it. If the carbon seal is forced off it's seat by too much grease - the pump will leak!

Hi, i am in the precess of doing my timing chain cover on a 1275, would you use a type of silicone sealent with a new gasket?

Thanks loz

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No need for ANY sealant. Just clean surfaces. Original engine had no sealant - why add it now ??

oh okayy. Just wondering not done it before

Thanks for quick reply.

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Well, all back together today, a nice long run and.....no leak from the front seal :D Although still a tiny couple of drops at the back.

She is also running nicely now with the rebuilt distributor. I found I had to advance it quite a bit from TDC to account for modern fuel, a little over 10 degrees. I am assuming the vac advance is working, it is hard to check on mine as the pipe is the very thin metal screw on type - hard to suck hard enough to move it.

And as far as the water pump goes I only put a few pumps worth of grease in. I think the original spec was for EP140 oil, so I presume grease will be OK. I took the opportunity to refill radiator with coolant this time to avoid corrosion.

Nice to be back on the road again

Great news!
An easy way to thest the vacuum advance is to disconnect it at the carb, block the nipple on the carb with a bit of tape or some plastic bag and rubber band.
Then take it for a drive.
If it feels a lot less lively and "powerful" then it was working and you need to reconnect it.

I'm assuming it is - I still don't have a lot of power obviously from an 803 but the acceleration is smoother and I notice I have better torque at low revs in higher gears - I can move off from almost stationary in third gear very smoothly so I think it's working fine

David what size socket did you use to remove the camshaft gear nut,does it loosen anti clockwise,any tips for stopping the gear moving while trying to loosen the nut.

Yes - anti-clock, and wedge the crank from turning with a lump of timber.