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Fixing a hole?
Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 3:06 pm
by shemat
While investigating a small rusty bubble in the paintwork it developed into the hole shown below. I'm not very experienced in this kind of repair but am keen to learn. Any advice would be very welcome.
Also can anyone tell me wat size the bolts holding the rear wings should be? The car is a 1953 series 11 4 door saloon.
Thanks
Matthew<br>

<br>
Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 4:01 pm
by bmcecosse
Looks like more than just a small hole there! It's going to need welding to do a proper repair.
Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 7:39 pm
by PSL184
I think the wing bolts are 5/16 UNF. Defo need a welded repair in that hole....
Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 7:46 pm
by bmcecosse
And the floor/sill edge below.
Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 8:37 pm
by shemat
I was wondering about the edge of the floor. The sills seem okay, so do the floors, its just where the two meet. Is this normal? What should I do about it. How do I go about tackling repairs. Is it an okay job for a relative novice with only a little experience welding? Please help!
Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 8:56 pm
by bmcecosse
The picture is a bit out of focus - so hard to tell exactly what's going on! If you can weld - and have the equipment - it should be easy enough!
Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 9:40 pm
by Mick_Anik
If you want to get better at welding, this looks like a good job on which to practice.
Firstly, use the forum search to find all relevant posts regarding angle grinders. Study them, until the mere thought of an angle grinder makes you quake in your boots.
If you decide to continue with the job, you have to cut out anything which is not original, unrusty steel. Don't use a grinding wheel to clean the edges to be welded - you will remove too much material. Get a flap disc - like a grinding disc but with sandpaper flaps on it. With very light pressure, these remove paint but almost no metal.
Also search here for 'welding'......there's an online welding course scattered about the forum.
The best part for me would be fabricating the repair piece - you can soon become adept at bending and trimming until the piece fits in nicely, like a piece in a jigsaw puzzle. You can weld a long nail to the piece to hold it in place with whilst you 'tack' weld a few spots to secure it.......then grind off the nail, and weld it up.
MIG welders (the equipment, that is), don't like welding over gaps, so time spent trimming a piece so that it fits really snugly into place pays off later. By 'really snugly', I mean that you couldn't get the corner of a cigarette paper in between the repair piece in position and the original metal.
With the nail still attached, it's just a question of repeatedly tickling the edges of the piece with the grinder and checking the fit, until......it fits! You can use a felt-tipped marker to mark the 'high' spots which need the current trim. To get a really nice fit, you might have to 'tickle and check' dozens of times, but it's not difficult.......it just needs patience. Bucketloads of patience.
Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 10:57 pm
by PSL184
As said, the pic is a bit fuzzy, but, I think the sill would clean up OK to be rewelded to the base of the B post but you might be better off with a repair panel for the base of the B post if one is available and you're new to welding - This will probably be easier for you short term.....
You might also find a lot more rot when you take that back wing off unfortunately but t all looks like standard stuff....
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 12:42 am
by DAVIDMCCULLOUGH
Carlo has one of these repair sections for sale in the 'for sale ' section. Just noticed this is a drivers side, but it gives you an idea of the panel available.
http://www.mmoc.org.uk/index.php?name=P ... ic&t=28456
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 8:11 am
by PSL184
If it were me I would get hold of that then - would make life much easier.....
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:45 am
by bmcecosse
Indeed it would!
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 3:42 pm
by stevey
ah brings back memories... horrible c post!!! if the whole bottom is getting cut out tack in place and check it sits ok with the back door shut.
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 7:33 pm
by shemat
Thanks for all your advice. Does the repair panel for the 1000 fit the series 2?
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 8:05 pm
by shemat
and another thing . . .
When the parts suppliers refer to LH and RH, do they mean looking at the front of the car or the back?
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 8:16 pm
by LouiseM
Not sure if all parts suppliers are the same but if they have online photos look at the picture of front wings as an indication eg for ESM & Bull Motif, a R/H front wing is off side (UK drivers side) and a L/H front wing is nearside (passengers side)
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:13 pm
by tortron
i have just finished this repair to my 4 door, including putting some properly attached nuts in rather than the standard - im going to come half out and then spin to drive you nuts type.
i managed to do both sides from scratch and then building up a bead of weld for the "lip" bit.
Probably easier if you have a patch panel at hand, but just saying a welder and cutting disk go along way
looks like your sill is going to need some repair too, give it a good wire brushing
Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 6:00 pm
by shemat
I've ordered the repair panel for the bottom of the C post. Is there one available for where the floor meets the sill. If so whats its called?
Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 8:14 pm
by DAVIDMCCULLOUGH