Morris Minor Owners Club

3000 miles ago, the bypass hose on my 10MA engine gave up its ghost, I decided to renew the cylinder head gasket as well.
Now, the engine spits out a pint of water out of the radiator overflow after only a very short trip, and white smohe is coming out of the exhaust pipe.
So I replaced the head gasket again, wondering was was wrong the first time, water clearly had reached nos 2 &3 piston.
The 1st gasket came from a famous Dutch supplier, was sort of cardboard type with one silvery metall surface; the new one from an English supplier this time, has one copper side and the back is grey metall .
HOW WOULD A CRAPPY HEAD GASKET LOOK LIKE, AND WHAT QUALIFIES FOR A GOOD ONE?
Could somebody give me a tip, please?
Yours truly

I would go for a copper gasket with all the holes, water and oil passages etc turned over and seamed. The thick copper gaskets have more give in them to take up any irregularities between the faces of the block and head.
That's my theory anyway.

It doesn't really matter - both types are fine. But - the block and the head must be FLAT - or there is no hope of it lasting any time. Torque it down to 44 ft lbf - and tighten it again after the first run.

Do you need a torque wrench as I read this piece of advise on the "Cylinder head" post a couple of weeks ago;

For years I didn't have a torque wrench - just pulled it down as hard as I could using one hand - on a normal ring key (spanner)! No problems - and no broken studs or stripped threads either!

Personally I would use your advise and utilise a torque wrench.

Yes - I wrote that - before I had access to a torque wrench that's how I tightened heads - and didn't have any problems. But - if you can get access to a torque wrench - better to use it!