Morris Minor Owners Club

Can anyone tell me approx how much a strip and reseal done by a restorer would cost,assuming the wood is still in good condition...the wood on my trav is dark but I can't find any soft patches. From the colour it looks as if somewhere along the way Cuprinol has been used then coated with clear varnish.

Hi S and K,

It rather depends on how much is required and how good a job the trader does. We normally strip the doors remove the runners and felts, hinges ,lights etc strip back all varnish, bleech and re prepare the wood to a high finish.
This is very labour intensive and could cost upto £840 plus Vat, or 24 hours at our labour rate.
Each job is different so prices can vary wildly

Thanks for replying so fast...it's a little more than I expected but I can see why, well looks as if I'll be raiding the piggy bank soon ! Thanks again

Post a few pics of the timber, you may well find that you require less work than my worst case scenario.

If you have covered storage - it's perfectly feasible to DIY the job!

Anyone know of any other alternative, like a fibreglass or metal frame ?

Sacrilege I know, but having just bought a traveller which will possibly need new wood in a couple of years, I'm wondering whether there's a more durable option with modern materials.

Or has anyone made their own replacement wooden parts ?

Doug

The original (boiled in Cuprinol) wood was very durable.
Pressure treated timber should be even better.

My traveller wood's only lasted 40 years though ..

Ash doesn't respond well to pressure treatment. If I had a Traveller I'd consider using Southern Yellow Pine from North America. It can be very effectively pressure treated, it's strong, has no knots and a grain pattern not that dissimilar from ash. As for making your own, no complicated joinery involved but you'd need to know what you were doing and have access to a bandsaw and decent router or spindlemoulder. Also you'd need accurate templates.

"Spindlemoulder" is a new word for me.

Hmm .. so wood is the best bet, buy the sound of it.

I dare say if you approach McLaren - they could make you up something in carbon fibre during th F 1 off-season ! Probably cost ~ £1,000,000 though.........

Hi, sorry to bring this topic back up again, just wanted some advice on my woodie's wood work.

my channels are looking in a bad way so am planning on taking the windows out and putting in some new channels from this kit I've bought. I haven't started yet (weather's not the best for it!) but was wondering if there was something on here like a step-by step guide to it? I don't have the money to send it of to get restored professionally

My main question is how do you get the windows out? I had a 5 minute play around with it today and on the inside there is a metal bracket in the top inside corner which looks structural but stops the existing top channel from coming out. should I take this off? is it best to take the windows out from the top first? or have I missed a technique? (you can see why im looking for a guide of sorts!)

any advice would be appreciated.

I've just had the windows out on my traveller and replaced some of the wood.... http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=42771

You shouldn't have to remove any brackets to get the windows or runners out. The only bracket I needed to take off was the one holding the cant rail to the cab at the top corner, and that was just to remove the cant rail itself, after I'd taken all the windows out.

First, take the capping rails off, and metal rail and catches. (You've probably already done that to get the view of the brackets..?) And the interior trim below the windows might need to be moved out of the way.

Then you need to open the rear sliding window slightly and hold it firmly at each end and firmly pull it out bottom first, so it's at a slight angle. The bottom runner should come with it. And the window will drop down from the top runner.

Then remove what's left of the inner window runners. They'll probably be nailed or screwed in place, so you may be able to unscrew them, or just pull them upwards so they break free and then remove the nails or screws left in the wood.

And then do the same with the front sliding windows. Mine all came out pretty easily, and then it was a case of removing what was left of the runners, screws and nails, clearing out the drain holes and cleaning up all the wood, ready for the new runners.

Putting it all back together is a reverse procedure. Fit all the top runners first, using screws, and making sure they're the right lengths, running straight and correctly positioned. Slot the windows (fronts first) into the top runner, with it's bottom runner on the bottom of the glass, and pull them into position. It's a bit of a wrangle and is easier with someone helping on other side (inside or outside depending where you are!) SLide the windows back and forth and screw the bototm runners into position.

Thanks so much for your help on that, exactly what I was needing, wont be afraid of using a little brute force on the bottom runners then. Going to hopefully start it today but don't have a garage so having to reply on good weather and covering it with a Tarp when not in use! wish me luck! I'll let you know how I get on! or if I run into problems, great to know people are here to help

If you remove the long, lower metal catch first (which should come away and be attached to the waist capping) and the top wooden piece and rubber, towards the front that stops the rear window sliding forwards, you might be able to get at any screws holding the bottom runner in place. Mine were nailed ( with small headed nails) and the runners just split as I pulled because they where in poor condition. You can push the window quite a bit along too.

But if you can check for screws it might be worth trying to remove any you can get out before you push/pull the windows out. It wasn't an issue on mine, but you won't want to damage the wood on the waist rail if the runners or screws are stubborn... but like I said, it wasn't an issue on mine, which were just held by a few small nails.