Morris Minor Owners Club

I'm not talking about horses or manly men. Wheel studs.

Does anyone have the dimensions of the standard Minor stud (e.g., length, shoulder/knurled shaft length, etc?)

Thanks!

This is from Spridget Mania (Sprite, Midget, and Morris parts). I assume all 3 have the same size studs?

Standard on the front and rear of all drum braked cars with non-spacered drums. For spacered drums, see 21A1278.
Fits 7.5" front "S" & 8.4" discs, too.
Length of shaft, not counting head, 1.375". Threaded porton approx. .875"

why do you need to know the dimension of the studs? they are cheaper to buy and post to the US than make I would have thought.

you can also get longer studs from several of the moggy dealers if that is what you need to fit the 13" wheels

That's them - and thread is 3/8" UNF. Obviously the splined part that locks into the hub is slightly larger.

I needed to know the length and shoulder/threded portion so I can find a similar, but larger, stud.

Thanks all!

getting a bit confused and sorry if i recap.. but you are going to use the 13" wheels why do you need to change your studs? you talk about larger studs are we talking longer length to ensure that the studs go through your new wheels and allow you to do your nuts up or are you after a larger diameter stud because the new wheels have larger holes?if this is the case can we not revert to sleeve nuts?

Sorry for creating confusion! I have a pair of American Racing Slots in 13". They seem to be in a 4 on 4 pattern, or at least they fit on the Moggy hub just fine, BUT they "float". In other words, the wheel center hole is larger than the Morris hub, and EVEN WITH the sleeve nuts and washers, the wheel has about 1/16" to move around, so there's no way I can get it centered. The washers that came with the wheels are thinner than what I usually see with sleeve nuts, and are smaller than the washer indents in the wheels, so that doesn't help.

I THINK the problem is that the Morris studs are 3/8" and the wheels were designed for American studs (7/16"-Chevy, or 1/2" Ford). I think the larger studs and accompanying sleeve nuts would take up the extra slack.

These wheels seem wider than the stock Morris wheels by quite a bit, but still seem to fit in the front wheel well OK (but not rear). Maybe different with a taller tire? The tires on there now are short race tires.

Nice wheels - Wolfrace (or exact copies thereof!) They MUST be used with sleeve type nuts. BUT - you can make them yourself by using an Allen Cap screw with a long enough plain shank to go through the wheel - and correct O/D (or turn them down) to snugly fit the holes - then shorten/drill and tap them to screw onto the Minor studs.

Hmmm... interesting idea! I think it will be easier to replace the studs though. I have a 1/2 ton shop press to press them in and out, and a drill press for opening up the holes.

As for the wheels, they're American Racing (stamped on the back). Not sure who copied who!

Does anyone know what the diameter of the knurled portion of the stud is? Length of the knurled part, or smooth part?

Keep the studs standard - there isn't that much 'meat' in the hubs. Much easier to make or buy correct sleeve nuts.

bmcecosse wrote:Keep the studs standard - there isn't that much 'meat' in the hubs. Much easier to make or buy correct sleeve nuts.

We had a spare hub, so I knocked out a stud and took a measurement. the knurl is 13/32 in case you were curious. But I'm afraid bmcecosse is right. If I drill out the holes to accept a larger stud, I'll be left with a scant 1/8" of meat left at the edge. It's not like 3/16 is anything to feel all that safe about, but 1/8 is a bit dicey. I guess we're back to stock 14s in back and 13s in front, just like we bought it! Funny though... buying, mouning and balancing both front wheels will cost less than the cost of 1 skinny rear wheel!

Still suggest making/buying sleeve nuts for the alloys must be worthwhile!

If it was my car, maybe, but it's my wife's car and she doesn't even like the aluminum wheels all that much! Besides, I don't think the sleeve nuts come any bigger without going to a larger stud. I may resort to making my own sleeves later, but like I said, she doesn't even like these wheels, so we'll probably sell them to pay for the tires.

Can you not just make up sleeves to fit between the stud holes and the sleeve nut?

Pete

in a ideal world it would be good to make a sleeve to fit over the hub to take it up to the wheel hole size.

but you would still need to sleeve up your nuts as well

Certainly in that picture - the alloy wheel doesn't appear to be well centred on the hub.

[quote="bmcecosse"]Nice wheels - Wolfrace (or exact copies thereof!) quote]

Close but no cigar, the early Woolferace (note different spelling) slots were actually American Racing Equipment slots, imported and marketed by John Woolfe Racing. Later on they were made by GKN and branded Wolfrace.

I've got American Racing slots on the rear of my Minor.

Pete

Thanks for that twincam - that's my 'new thing' learned for today. And - I've been off the cigars for a while now - although it wouldn't much to get me back on them!<br><br>
These are genuine 'Wolfrace' on my TR7!

Doible post (why does it sometimes do that?) deleted