Morris Minor Owners Club

Just purchased a pickup cab and chassis which were refurbished in 1994 but not put back together. You can see from the pictures that there is some surface rust coming through the primer. Am rubbing down and intend to zinc primer. Is there anything else I should use on the metalwork before priming?<br><br>

Possibly give it a wash over with one of the rust killers-usually contain phosphoric acid - which will neutralise any rust and acid etch the surface.

Is that a bit of Dexion making up one side of the sill box section?
Makes me wonder about the quality of the refurbishment.

Ooooow yes - hadn't noticed that!

No, it's not dexion although it does look like that on the picture. The brown bits are the spot welds. The body is not yet fixed to the chassis. My plan is now to fix to chassis which has been prepared and then work back from the engine bay. I really want to get the front wheels on asap so that I can easily move her around.

The door sills still need completion as you can see but I want to get the body on first.

Thanks for advice so far, be in touch.

Depends on how long the primer has been on and where she has stood. Primer is pourous and can hold moisture for a suprisingly long time. Personally if you've got a nice dry garage now I would strip it all back the red oxide then apply good quality primer.

Hi from Australia
If you can see the minor surface rust under the primer then there is only ONE alternative, remove all paint from the metal surfaces, treat with a phosphoric based metal conditioner (one section at a time). Then neutralise with water and dry to obtain a bluish tinge colour on the metal surface(surface should be warm as drying needs to be done quickly as possibly as the surface will become gold in colour which means rust), now the surface is clean and treated ready for the application of a 2 pack Etch Primer. Over this etch primer you can apply a 1K or 2K paint system of your choice.

If you need any more advice, I will be only to glad to help as I have been teaching Vehicle Painting / Repair for 34 years at a TAFE College in Sydney / Australia.

Currently restoring a 1960 MM 1000 four door back to the original off the showroom floor condition (80% completed).

beware red oxide, it can react with 2K and celly paint as it tends to be an oil based paint. Better to etch prime, prime and top coat.
Agree about stripping it to bare metal though.

jonathon wrote:beware red oxide, it can react with 2K and celly paint as it tends to be an oil based paint. Better to etch prime, prime and top coat.
Agree about stripping it to bare metal though.

"beware red oxide, it can react with 2K" - That's why you have to REMOVE ALL THE PAINT if you refinish in 2K.

Yep, thats why I said it !

Thanks from Oz and Southam! Common links? I was born in Griffith NSW and brought up in Warwick. Just a nice coincidence. I'll get stripping!

This may be a good time to ask if 2 pack or indeed water-based paint can be sprayed OVER cellulose paint? Or have I got it the wrong way round?

In my experiance pretty much anything can go on top of celly - It is sythetic that gives problems. Any issues will usually show up when you primer though so that is a good time to spray on a barrier coat.....

Red Oxide is ok so long as you get the right one, don't skimp on money and don't use synthetic. If possible, and this is a bit naughty, keep eye out for some old lead based red oxide, best is always the oldest. You may want to be very careful spraying it though.
Old school trick is if in doubt do a test sample on something.

2k is not a big fan of celly. Synthetic is just a headache. personal preference is always 2k.

les wrote:This may be a good time to ask if 2 pack or indeed water-based paint can be sprayed OVER cellulose paint? Or have I got it the wrong way round?

Hi Les, definately do no apply 2K or a Waterborne paint system over a Cellulose based paint. The opposite method can be done quite successfully, but why would you want to put such an inferior paint over a far superior paint.