BLEEDING brakes

Post by **bigjohn** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 4:02 pm

i have just replaced the drums,shoes,wheel cylinders,all brake pipes,and the master cylinder. I have been bleeding the brakes now for 2 hours, and gone through 2 ltrs of fluid! and the brake pedal still goes to the floor, give it a couple of pumps and it is perfect.
i have checked all the unions for leaks, had the drums off to see if i had a dodgey cylinder and nothing, i just cant figure it out, anyone got any idears

Post by **RogerRust** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 6:30 pm

Have a look at this thread

http://www.mmoc.org.uk/index.php?name=P ... ing+brakes

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 10:00 pm

Adjust the shoes up TIGHT - then bleed by gravity - starting at the rear nearside. I've NEVER had the slightest bother bleeding Minor brakes !! I know saying that doesn't help - but the shoes do need to be adjusted up - then tube on bleeder into jelly jar with a little fluid - pump the pedal once - open the nipple and sit back while the air bubbles dribble out.

Post by **cormorant** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 10:41 pm

I do the same, i.e lock the brakes up hard with the adjuster though I do use a vizibleed tool I had off ebay.

I don't know why but lots of people do this job differently and lots of people struggle to get the brakes bled on this car - takes me a few goes too. Maybe gravity is the answer and a simple tube as bmc says, will try this next time. I suppose it is the method that would have been around when the car was built. How long do you reckon it takes per wheel for the bubbles to go using this method bmc?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Aug 30, 2009 11:16 pm

As long as it takes to drink a mug of tea!

Post by **bigjohn** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 6:14 am

thanks guys will try this afternoon when i get up!!! [work nights]

Post by **grumpygrandad** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 6:47 pm

i have read on this site of people using a schring to fill rear cylindrs but we have had no bother. but some seem to. some jobs on morris cars do seem difficult. but nice and steadt does it and you get there,,grandad

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 10:22 pm

Syringe I hope|!

Post by **bigjohn** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 11:24 pm

well not tryed anythig just yet ,,but i will keep you posted when i do

Post by **bigjohn** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 1:39 pm

right iv tryed everything what you good people have sugested and iv still got a crap pedal,iv even adapted an old mastercylinder top to my brake eezzee and no joy.
give it a pump and the pedal comes up to a good state, leave it 2 mins and its on the floor again
i have noticed that when you shove the pedal down it sounds like there is air escaping from the master cylinder???????
just to recap everything is new on the brake system,matercylinder,brake cylinders,all pipes,shose and drums.
as onyone eles got any idears

Post by **Dean** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 2:03 pm

Do you have to refill the master cylinder in order to bring the pedal back up, or just pump it?

That will definitely prove there is no leak.

If there is no leak then you have air.. somewhere or..... your master cylinder isn't returning the piston correctly??

Post by **bigjohn** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 4:45 pm

no theres no fluid loss at all
when i bleed them there is a good dolop of fluid comes out of every bleed screw
iv checked the mastercylinder and the piston returns to its stop iv even tryed bleeding the mastercylinder???? and still a crap pedal im at the end of my tether now, the maches and a gallon of super unleaded are going to make an apperance soon

Post by **PSL184** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 5:21 pm

I've had exactly the same problem which had me stumped for ages and I eventually found that air was getting in at the rear brake pipe to master cylinder connection and it wasn't bad enough to loose any fluid either - it just let air in.....

Post by **bigjohn** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 5:41 pm

iv been round all the unions and tightend them all!!! twice and still the crap pedal

Post by **PSL184** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 5:47 pm

All I'll say is double double double check that rear connector as it is real difficult to get at with everything fitted into the car - After that the only other thing I can think of is a faulty master cylinder although I've changed a few and not had any faulty ones. Was it a genuine one you used or a pattern part as I have heard that the pattern ones are rubbish and my preferred supplier has stopped selling them due to the number they had returned faulty....?

Post by **Dean** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 6:19 pm

When you bled the brakes the first time, did you use one of these self bleed pipes with none return valve etc? The gravity way may not have worked for you.

Try the traditional way with a helper and examine the fluid yourself as it comes out.

This sounds like a tough one...

Post by **bigjohn** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 6:34 pm

done all the ways i can think of,had my son the wife and farther in law pushing the pedal at one time or another
iv now gone through 6 ltrs of fluid

Post by **Dean** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 7:42 pm

How about leaving the car to stand for a week.... forget about it and come back in a weeks time????

Perhaps sit the car on an angle so the air slowly rises to the front of the car???

Post by **bigjohn** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 8:20 pm

hows about useing the super unleaded and the matches

the thing is i souldnt have to leave it a week just to bleed the blod*y brakes its a 15min job on any car or should be it realy is pis*ing me off right now i just dont know what else to do this is the first car[and boy iv had a few] iv had that is driving me up the wall

Post by **DAVIDMCCULLOUGH** » Tue Oct 06, 2009 8:31 pm

Is the rod that works the master cylinder fully adjusted up? This may help with the pressure.

Ive always found the back brakes harder to bleed and was told to try this, after bleeding normally jack the car up at the back and leave the lid off the master cylinder over night. The air finds its own way out out and you should be left with a hard pedal. I have tried it and it does work

Its a pity you werent a bit closer or I would have had a look.....