Morris Minor Owners Club

im thinking of laying some sound deadening felt down on the floor. i know i cant put it in the doors as water flows through them
my question is can i put it in the rear panels. below the rear side windows?????? does water flow through this area??????
and by the way its a 2 door

Are you sure water flows through? I thought it was just condensation if the seals are up to scratch?

Anyway I guess if the rear window seal is a good 'un go ahead and sound proof below it.

I'm sure someone will say differently.

Water does run down the inside of the doors (why do you think they rot so well at the bottom?) there should be a rubber strip to stop too much getting through but its not completely watertight (it would be a nightmare to make it so!) There are drain holes to allow the water to escape, but over the years they get bunged up and rot happens.

Even modern cars are designed to allow water run down (I recently took a doorcard off the fiesta and it sealed with a thin plastic sheet for just this reason)

To answer the OPs question = Water runs down the inside of the door but should NOT run down the inside of the rear panel - if it does you need to replace your rubbers.

Touch glass seals on the front doors should significantly reduce the amount of water going into the doors.
You can use a stick-on bitumen product (like roof flashing) for sound deadening. That wont soak up water.

We use two products which drastically reduce noise in any Minor. The silver material is adhesive barrier mat and the grey material a leaded space layer (sandwiched foam)<br><br>

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They're great pictures Jonathon.

Do you just stick the silver stuff on and then a big mat of the grey stuff laid over the top?

Does the silver stuff stick on the inside of the doors? Also, delicate question, where can we get it from?

I'm aiming to soundproof Maurice once I get a sound, solid floor in. It's for my wife, whereas I'm not too bothered about Maggie, I can put up with the noise!

Thanks
Andrew

The barrier mat (silver) is self adhesive (very sticky) and the space layer mat is either with or without adhesive. There is also a leaded sponge and foil sandwich plate specifically for engine bays. I'll search for a pic and add it to the above post.( found the Dynamat pic) but we will be doing another bonnet next week so can post pics then.
We would normally cover the full bulkhead, floors, doors,side panels, and roof with the barrier mat. On travellers we cover the side panels with adhesive space layer. The under carpet space layer is not adhesive to allow easy removal.
I cannot reveal my supplier as we will soon be offering bespoke kits for the Minor.
This material is top quality and used as OE by major companies like Range Rover. It is a relatively expensive product, but is well worth the outlay and time taken to perform a proper job.
The barrier mat will stick to the inside face of the door skin and the inner framework so long as they are free from any waxoyle and the like. The trick is to use relatively small pieces to cover the panel.

thanks for those pics jon
so you can put felt sound deadening in the rear panel of a 2 door with out it getting wet???

By rear panel I presume you mean the 1/4 panel below the rear side window, in which case yes, one provisor though would be if you have semaphores which can allow water into this area.

As soon as I have the money I'm going to do the full monty (just like Jonathan) on my MGB I've measured the dB at 30 mph (70dB) and 60 mph (105dB)and will see how it improves. I'm also going to get a new improved door seals to cut down the windnoise.

60 mph (105dB)

good job it's not a company car - they would have to ban you from driving it with that noise level!

no point in having a radio in my car then

so its dynamat you use then or is that one just for the bonnet

Johnathon (et al),
Glad you are doing a Trav, 'cos that's what I got! On my care worn car, I few years ago I did the curves below. (The rears seats were down which might raise the noise a bit.) The sound meter was held at chest height in an attempt to pick up what I actually hear.
The bottom curve is, I suggest, as quiet as the car could be, since its without engine noise (and in my case, without loud backaxle whine). Conversely, the top curve is as bad as it gets. But if I could reduce the noise by only 3dB(A) it would mean I could hear traffic announcements at 60 mph (my usual cruise speed) and not have to reduce to 50mph to get down to 80 dB(A) as I do at the moment.
But decibels need to be handled with care - they're bit weird. A reduction of 3dB is a halving of the sound power - but not of your hearing response. I recommend
http://www.phys.unsw.edu.au/jw/dB.html
as a site to read up on them - esp the related page at the bottom on testing your own hearing reponse.
And Roger; the recommendation is that 100dB(A) be exceeded for no more than 15 minutes a day!
Regards, MikeN.

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Hi Dennis.
We no longer use Dynamat, as the product we now use is more effective and cheaper. The pic was for illustrative purpose only as to how we applied the panels.

put my sound deadening in yesterday didnt realy make much diffrence its the felt with rubber backing. i put it under the back seat, side panels in the rear, tunnel, bulk head and the floors
any ideas on cutting down the noise????????

See the pics I posted on the 1st page !. Felt is pretty useless at sound absobtion in a car.

http://www.carpetright.co.uk/comfort-st ... step2.html

this any good as a cheep alternative?

Also, anyone know how many meters squares are required (2 door)

Matt

Must admit i have similar stuff down in mine, all be it the foam kinda stuff instead, but only because we had it lying around after fitting a new carpet. It does help with the insulation and makes the floors softer, and does have a slight advantage with sound but its not amazing. Just make sure your car doesn't have any leaks as this will trap the water.

Is it engine noise that's the problem?

Something suitable, not foam, on the underside of the bonnet and on the bulkhead will help a lot.
A very good clean and two coats of underseal will help, otherwise heatproof sound deadening stuff with a very good clean first.

The gear lever gaiter needs to be in good condition and there should be a square of foam stuff on the clutch pedal that seals the gap there when the clutch is up.
Every hole in the bulkhead should have something in it and the grommets need to be in good condition.