Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi,

My starter won't turn, relay switch is ok so I've taken it out to check the brushes. Does this starter motor look familiar? It doesn't look like the one pictured in the workshop manual but does look like the one sold new by ESM.

Does anybody have an opinion on whether the brushes look worn? The contacts on the rotor do look dirty so I'm going to start by cleaning them. Any advice?

Regards<br><br><br><br><br><br>

might just need a clean

The closest one looks like it's making contact but the top one doesn't.
All the dust looks very coppery which = conductive so it needs a clean at least.
The commutator looks like hardly and contact has been made at all.
Are the segments between the copper bits (technical term) standing proud at all?
Definitely worth replacing the brushes while you have it apart.
I'm surprised it hadn't failed before.

Do you know where I could find replacement brushes? Couldn't find this type of brushes anywhere. Also the wire of one of the brush pairs is welded to the stator. Is that normal?

Hello Pascal,

yes that's how it's done.

Use some petrol to clean every thing up and ensure the brushes are free. You can clean the commutator with fine glass paper, not emery cloth or wet and dry paper. There isn't much that goes wrong and those brushes seem long enough.

How do you know the relay (I'm presuming you mean the solenoid?) is OK, and also is the battery and engine earths sound?

Alec

I doubt that the brush is welded, probably soldered.
If you don't have a soldering iron and the know how to use one it will be easier to take the starter into you friendly local motor factor (NOT Qfit) and ask for a replacement.
Mention old style Minis and Lucas and they should be able to sort things out.
If the person behind the counter has grey hair and wrinkles tell them it is from a Morris Minor and the same as early Minis and you should be fine.
If you get a spotty youth who wants the VIN number before they will open a parts book ask for the manager.

Is it just me or is one of your brushes missing!?

or has it just popped out for the photo?

Alec wrote: How do you know the relay (I'm presuming you mean the solenoid?) is OK, and also is the battery and engine earths sound?

The starter failed a first time. I cleaned the connections then it started again and worked fine for a few days. Then it failed again. I recharged the battery, checked the 12v to the solenoid (nice clunk) then to the starter connector after ignition, and it was ok. When checking the starter connector I had the minus wire of the volt meter on the body, so I guess the engine earth is ok.

I'm going to give it a good clean with petrol tomorrow and see what happens.

Regards

taupe wrote:Is it just me or is one of your brushes missing!?

or has it just popped out for the photo?

It is there, it's shied away from the camera

Alec wrote: Use some petrol to clean every thing up and ensure the brushes are free. You can clean the commutator with fine glass paper, not emery cloth or wet and dry paper. There isn't much that goes wrong and those brushes seem long enough.

Is it worth putting a bit of WD40 around the springs after cleaning, or no lubricant at all?

E bay item 220445405622

I think this is the set you need. Best check with the seller though.

Regards
Taupe

Hello Pascal,

no, don't use any lubricant, it's not necessary.

It does sound a bit like the brushes are sticking, so if freed off all should be well.
However, by putting your meter leads on the chassis and on the solenoid or starter terminal doesn't mean that verifies a good earth. To check for poor earth connections it needs the meter to be connected from the starter body to the car body, any voltage showing there indicates a poor earth. connection, i.e you are measuring the volt drop which should be negligible.

Marky,

they are definitely not soldered but resistance welded.

Alec

So can I fit a new brush kit a soldering iron or not?

Hello pascal,

yes you can but you need a large iron, an electronic type is just far too small.

However, I don't see any reason to replace the ones you have?

Alec

I'm confused now, if they are resistance welded what use will a soldering iron be?

Hello Marky,

what you do is cut the original braid about half an inch from the weld. Then trim the new brush tail to length and solder the two together. It helps if you bind the two together with fine copper wire before soldering to keep the joint neat.

Alec

Sounds nightmarish to me - just clean it all up - square off the brush ends with a fine file - as long as they are still proud of the holders and 'springing' - they will be fine. Replacement starters are available for ~£5 - so it's hardly worth spending a lot of time on this one.

Hello BMCE,

I agree but merely answered the question. I did say that those brushes looked OK.

Alec

Oh yes - I quite agree! Just pointing out I wouldn't bother with any major repair on such a readily available unit. I have at least 6 spares 'in stock'!

I understand it is "doable" but as Pascal doesn't have a soldering iron it seems pointless to buy one for this job.
If a clean up doesn't sort it he would be better off replacing it. Preferably with one that only needs a screwdriver to replace the brushes.
This type is an early attempt at "no user serviceable parts inside"