Morris Minor Owners Club

Managed to fit the new cable but now when you press accelerator the cable rises up and then the outer casing gets stuck on the edge of the bit that holds it in!! How can I fix this?<br><br>

is the throttle return spring connected first of all, as this should keep everything tight

so u mean the collar of the throttle outer cable rides up then
i thinkit should be a push fit inside the metalbracket

Yep it does fit inside the metal bracket. Tightened it up a bit - does the spring look as if its under too much tension or not enough<br><br>

Did you remove the brass end of the outer cable from the cable stop on the bulkhead? This often gets detached from the outer cable and sticks inside the cable stop. The best way to remove it is to poke a small screw driver through the hole from inside the car.
Having done that, the ends of the new outer cable should fit securely in the cable stops at the bulkhead and carb. ends.
Before fitting it is a good idea to smear a bit of grease along the inner cable.
When the end of the cable with the nipple on is fitted to the accelerater pedal pull the slack through so that the outer cable is secure, then clamp the carb. end of the inner cable leaving a little slack to ensure that the throttle closes fully.

mike.perry wrote:Did you remove the brass end of the outer cable from the cable stop on the bulkhead? This often gets detached from the outer cable and sticks inside the cable stop. The best way to remove it is to poke a small screw driver through the hole from inside the car..

Mike - I didn't check to see if there was any brass end in there - I will. I had to remove the old cable by pulling it through from inside the car because the little metal end that fits on the pedal wouldn't feed through - should it? If so then there may well be something stuck in there

Thats a sure sign. You should be able to feed the cable through from under the bonnet.
Been there, seen it, done it (last weekend)

However ................. I forgot to mention that I`m using a bicycle break cable cos I couldn't get the proper part. I understood this would be ok. Now I've noticed two things - the inner cable is much stiffer to push through the outer cable and the outer cable is slightly fatter!! The end nipple is larger so that's probably why it doesn't fit through the bulkhead. Now I'm going to thread the new inner cable through the old outer cable. Any tips on how to stop the cable from fraying and untwisting - I've tried to solder it but the solder won't stick. I thought this was going to be simple

Dont worry about it untwisting. As long as its nipped up good and tight on the carb it wont unravel.

It's not so much that - it's having to re-thread it back through the original outer cable - if the end isn't really good its really difficult to get it down the tube - if you know what I mean!

Aah, got you!

Cant really think of a solution off the top of my head I'm afraid

You need bike gear cable - not brake cable.

Thank you so much - I expect that will make all the difference!

For the price of a cable, under £5 you might just as well buy the correct part. Apparently the BMC Mini cable also fits. You need a 23 inch outer cable.

Mini cable as standard will be v short - although many sell a long version for smoother action - that is exactly what you want. Trick with bike cable is to thread it through before cutting it - then don't take it out again!

The replacement cables currently being sold are 25in-probably better as I recall an issue on the original cable being too short when fitting a HIF38 carb. The inner is 1.5mm diam. The bike gear cable on my bike is thinner-1.25mm whereas my bike brake cable is 1.5mm.

Reason for using bike cable was just a time thing - couldn't get one locally and need to be somewhere to get the exhaust fitted!!

Yes - bike cable is fine, but the gear cable is thinner/more flexible if the brake cable is proving difficult to work with.

Roy,
Nothing against bike gear cable-absolutely fine. The reason I mentiond this was that I read a post somewhere from Ani where a 1275cc engine was mentioned -so I assume a bigger carb. It may well have been referring to a different car. What I had in the back of my mind was the recent issue of cable travel on the bigger carb being less than that on the standard carb and hence the need for a travel restraint, as you recommended, to minimize the risk of premature cable failure. Just thinking if that is the case the standard cable might be stronger. Ani's photo shows a throttle return spring and that is what had me wondering.

You don't want the cable to be under any strain at full throttle - no matter how thick and strong it is! If the travel is too much -wood block under the pedal (or bend the pedal, but then not so easy to go back) is required. Later carbs have co-axial spring (as you have noticed!) and so don't need another return spring - however I suspect from the exhaust leak problems mentione delsewhere - this 1275 has a standard manifold fitted and therefore probably no more than an older 1.5" carb.

I havent't got around to restraining the cable due to the HIF38 carb. yet but I was considering fitting an adjusting screw and locknut to the pedal guard. Going lightfooted on the throttle at present and carry spares and tools just in case. I hope to fit the 12g940 head pretty soon so I do it all in one go.