Page 1 of 1

won't accelerate

Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:04 am
by maxeuer
I am the proud - but unlucky - owner of a 1968 M M 1000 Traveller with a 10MA-U-H engine, that won't run well since a couple of days:
starts normally then after about 1 mile I can't accelerate any more:engine doesn't respond to the throttle [though the throttle moves].
I then pull over, let the engine run idle for a few seconds, drive off, then it usually happens again.
Eventually my little Mr. Becker will run normal again for the rest of the day.
What I did so far:
when the fault is there with the engine running idle, I pulled off the fuel line from the carburetter: fuel squirts out [ would that not indicate fuel pump functioning OK ?]; cleaned floating chamber [ loads of red muck at the bottom]; took the fuel pump out and cleaned the pump contact points [ looked 'burnt' to me]. Fault reoccured same day.
I noticed , having reassembled pump + fuel lines, when I turned the ignition on, the pump ticking for a few seconds; then this stopped [ apparently floating chamber becoming full].
Would that be normal behaviour? I remember, when I purchased the car 3 months ago, the pump ticking all the time, at least till the engine went on.
Although I know nothing, I would rule out ignition.
It would then have to be a fuel problem, would it not ?
Does somebody have a suggestion, please ?
Yours truly

Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:20 am
by tonym911
Just been through a similar experience. I take it you've checked the (ignition) points? The only things I would add to your list are possible faulty coil, possible faulty rotor arm, and check that the dashpot damper (the knurled knob atop your carb's suction dome) is OK and has the right oil in its tube, members here recommend 3 in 1. I replaced and/or checked just about everything on mine, replacing the rotor arm after checking the fuel pump points (which looked fine on my car). Noticed the new rotor arm was a much snugger fit than the old one, which looked like this (pic attached). I have a feeling the new arm was what made the difference in the end - well, I convinced myself of that anyway! Good luck. <br>Image<br>

Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:24 am
by aupickup
dont rule out anything at the moment

check valve clearances, also the timing, only change one thing at a time and kep the old part

check points and condenser
a normal cause for errasctic running

probably needs a complete service as well if you dont know the history

Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 11:25 am
by buellzebub
It's worth checking the vacuum advance is working correctly

Mick

Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 3:14 pm
by cormorant
Fuel pump ticking then stopping is good. Having said that it does sound like a fuel problem to me, (starvation) maybe air leak in the line somewhere or gunge? Or as simple as the fuel filler not venting? Any hiss if you release the fuel filler cap after you have had to pull over?
Maybe carb needs a good clear out if you have had loads of muck in the float chamber

Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 10:00 am
by beechford
you are pushing the choke in arent you?

Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 10:18 am
by tonym911
Just wondering if there is a clue in the red colour of the muck. Would that indicate the use of an additive for a leaded head? If you haven't been using the additive, that could damage the valves/valve seats. I gather from other members that the engine is quite tolerant of not having additive, but less so on longer runs.

Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 10:57 am
by PSL184
What have you done to the car since you have owned it in terms of modifications or improvements? Have you fitted a locking fuel cap for example or changed a slightly perished fuel hose? Sounds to me like it could be a fuel starvation problem as as stated by someone above it could be due to tank pressure.

Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 7:22 pm
by maxeuer
Thank you for all your help and comments.
In the last 3 months car's been driven 2000 miles.
The bloke I purchased it from, told me ordinary unleaded fuel [Euro 95 it's called at my place] would be all right.
I don't believe this, so I add this Lead Replacement stuff 1:1000
Major improvements were: making the brakes brake [main cylinder replaced].
Radiator 'Bypass hose' gave it in on the motorway, engine ran dry for a time, so I fitted a new head gasket in as well , later replaced all the rest of radiator + heater hoses.
Did make the valve adjustment.
Car went like mad after that, I thought, up till now.
Another thing just sprang to mind: the day the fault happend the Misses came back with the car and I took a look under the bonnet: I only noticed the bracket the dynamo is bolted to, rattling lose. Tightened it and all seemd fine to me.
I only mention this because the ignition coil is screwed on top of the dynamo, so maybe the coil took the rattling not too well. Apart from that, haven't touched the ignition.
Fuel cap: l let it the way it came: very likely not a genuine one; it's a locking type that won't lock anymore.
Coming saturday will be the time for more experiments.I keep you posted.Bye.

Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 9:07 am
by maxeuer
Well, chucked out the fuel filter: full of that strange red muck [feels like fine ground brickstone, wondering what it is].
What eventually made all the difference were the spark plugs: 2 were wet-ish.
Cleaned and blowed them out: Car runs like mad whole this week.
Hope, it stays like this , at least for a while.

Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 9:32 am
by Peetee
Well, chucked out the fuel filter: full of that strange red muck [feels like fine ground brickstone, wondering what it is].
That's rust sludge from the fuel tank. There could be quite a bit more in there. I cleaned the tank in one of my 'barn find' cars and removed a whole jam jar full of this silt!