Morris Minor Owners Club

Does anyone know if there is a thread describing the process of converting an electronic ignition Minor back to points? Thank you.

Remove electronic dizzy - install standard dizzy. Simples !

can i ask why you are doing it? electronic dizzys are great lot better (IMO) than fitting fiddly points and adjusting them every 3K miles or so.

You would need to read the other long thread about spluttering/cutting out engine. Almost everything else has been tried - so now elimination of leccy ignition is suggested.

charlie_morris_minor wrote:can i ask why you are doing it? electronic dizzys are great lot better (IMO) than fitting fiddly points and adjusting them every 3K miles or so.

You know what you've opened now...

As bmcecosse says I've tried just about everything else - new coil, new distributor cap, checked fuel filter, carb piston, dashpot damper, air filter and plugs all good, still getting poor running after about 15 mins.

bmcecosse wrote:Remove electronic dizzy - install standard dizzy. Simples !

Er…I take it you mean remove the elec ignition module inside the distributor and then the points just go straight into the same location? What about the condenser?

Complete dizzy exchange will be the easiest way to go. One out - one in. Rewire the coil to suit -and try the car.

I just get the uneasy feeling that I am playing darts in the dark.

Well - tried just about everything else - obviously try rotor arm first, but if that's no good - suspect the electronic ignition.

tonym911 wrote:As bmcecosse says I've tried just about everything else - new coil, new distributor cap, checked fuel filter, carb piston, dashpot damper, air filter and plugs all good, still getting poor running after about 15 mins.

Hi Tony just one thing you don't mention the condensor, one of my pals had similar issues after a recent service and that was caused by a duff new condensor.

Kevin wrote:you don't mention the condensor

Because electronic ignition modules don't need them.

I had 123 Ignition when AA came out they said we will relay it to you home .Now all new, (not recon) Dizzy, points, condenser, rotor ,Coil,leads and a spare set in the boot. Perfect Just as they were 1948 to 71 <br><br>

Wow -I thought the 123 ignition dizzies were bomb-proof, what went wrong with it ?

I've got points and a condenser in a spares kit that came with the car but not confident about how to proceed taking elec ignition off and putting points etc in. Presumably its a case of removing the whole distributor from the car and going from there.

Well - yes - but the way you decribe the wiring to the coil (ie - one wire going to earth etc) - it's going to need a rewire too. Surely your garage mate can help with all this ? That's why I suggest a complete spare dizzy - which could be wired up very simply and temporarily without disturbing the electronic unit at all - for a trial run. If you were near me - we could have this sorted out in 10 minutes! Is there really no-one near by who can spare a few minutes on this problem ? But it IS worth try another rotor arm as suggested earlier - it's about the only thing that's NOT been changed, apart from the electronics of course !

Garage guy is a working man and I would not impose in this way. This ignition thing feels outside my comfort zone so I will do the easy stuff like new rotor arm and if that doesn't work I will then book it in with him as a proper paying job.

I wouldn't suspect the rotor, as I've never seen one to fail intermittently. Usually when they fail, that's it, they burn through from the shaft up to the brass part.
But hey, it's always worth a try, "nothing ventured, nothing gained".

A rotor arm failed for me a few weeks ago. First manifestation was occasional stuttering under load (i.e. the conditions when HT voltage just before the spark would have occurred would be maximum - low revs, wide throttle). Then occasional dying, but only when things had warmed up. Then complete failure which magically cured itself after half an hour of wild-goose chasing. Finally total failure until rescued by a friend with a spare rotor arm. This was an AC-Delco distributor, but the principle's the same. The coil failures occurred when I fitted a new coil the next day, but were definitely unrelated.

Kevin

Well, I've just been out again with all the new bits and it is a lot better. Last things I did today were to (a) check fuel pump points (they looked ok but gave them a light twiddle with a very fine bit of wet and dry anyway), (b) take out sagging double-thickness underbonnet insulation and re-stick in single piece (in case it was starving the engine of air) and (c) put in a new rotor arm. Unfortunately I didn't do a test run after each of these jobs, which would have been ideal, time wasn't on my side, but I have a feeling (and it's only that, a feeling) that the new rotor arm was the most significant event. There's still the occasional stutter, which seems to happen mainly when coming out of slow bends in 2nd, but I feel a lot more confident about reaching my destination now. Sincere thanks to everyone who has chipped in information, I think I made use of all of it! I enjoyed the process and wonder if the car was teaching me about itself by presenting me with these little foibles to try and resolve. I certainly wouldn't have got this far without this amazing website and the wonderful people on it. I hope to be able to thank some of you in person at Sparkford next weekend.