Morris Minor Owners Club

What spark plugs are suitable for 948?

My engine stalls every time when water temperature reaches around 75degrees and once stalled, i could not start it again (cranking sound is still there, fuel pump is still working). After when engine cools downs, no problem starting it at first time.

NGK:

BP6ES
BCP6ES
BCPR6ES

And I think champion ones are N9Y or N9YC

Matt wrote:NGK:

BP6ES
BCP6ES
BCPR6ES

And I think champion ones are N9Y or N9YC

Thanks

What are e differences for the 3 NGK's?

Probably caused by flooding over in the carb - you need to check the fuel level at the bridge in the carb - possible the float chamber valve is leaking slightly and allowing too much fuel into the carb - when it's idling. When running hard - it probably uses enough fuel to absorb the leakage - so the problem only shows up at idle.

Got this off a NGK website

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There you go then!

BTW the C means copper core ;)

Is the choke closing completely? A slightly open choke would cause the engine to run rich and stall when it warmed up.

bmcecosse wrote:Probably caused by flooding over in the carb - you need to check the fuel level at the bridge in the carb - possible the float chamber valve is leaking slightly and allowing too much fuel into the carb - when it's idling. When running hard - it probably uses enough fuel to absorb the leakage - so the problem only shows up at idle.

forgot to point out that this only happens when my car is idling at standstill and not moving. it happens only when car is stop.

when choke warming up, there is quite a fair bit of smoke during cold start. Dad says is black smoke but it seems to me to be white smoke. Could that be a sign of running rich or water in engine?

mike.perry wrote:Is the choke closing completely? A slightly open chocke would cause the engine to run rich and stall when it warmed up.

choke is closed completely. at what rpm should it be idling?

sirrom wrote:Got this off a NGK website

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sorry to trouble you to look this up for me when i can do it myself..thanks

Matt wrote:There you go then!

BTW the C means copper core ;)

thanks fr the info

Just raise the idle speed so it doesn't stall - then adjust the mixture, and then re-set the idle. It's all in the Manual!

will do. noted

Normal idle speed is about 600rpm but without a tacho it is just guesswork. As long as the engine is ticking over smoothly that's ok.
you don't want the tickover too slow or you will have no oil pressure

And it will stall when you press the clutch down!

mike.perry wrote:Normal idle speed is about 600rpm but without a tacho it is just guesswork. As long as the engine is ticking over smoothly that's ok.
you don't want the tickover too slow or you will have no oil pressure

Wow i have to do something den. Mine is idling at 1400-1600rpm and when aircon is on is around 1000-1200rpm.

bmcecosse wrote:And it will stall when you press the clutch down!

Mine will not stall when i clutch in but rpm will drop by 200-300rpm. Is this normal? My car stall only when stationary even when clutch is not depress.

Check Tappets Exaust tappet should be 17 Thou

canterburyalan wrote:Check Tappets Exaust tappet should be 17 Thou

I'm sorry i don't quite understand.

Your idle speed does seem very high - but it would need to be to drive air-con. Not many Minors have that!! However - tachometers are notoriously inaccurate - so just set it to idle nicely at the lowest speed that does not cut out when you have air con on, and clutch depressed.
I think the ref is to the exhaust valve gaps - the 'tappets' are actually down the side of the engine and bear on the cam lobes - more commonly known as cam followers these days. I always suggest 15 thou gap on the exhaust valves (12 thou on inlets) - so the proposed 17 thou seems quite big - and in any case I can't see the relevance to the problem in this thread!