Page 1 of 1

removing rear leaf spring front pin

Posted: Tue May 26, 2009 10:21 pm
by cormorant
This is a small but possibly useful tip that may work depending on the level of corrosion you have in this area. The small plate with 2 nuts through it is usually seized on to the pin which goes through the front spring eye. Often you have to grind the nuts off and knock the plate and pin out together. Unfortunately the nuts are not captive and the front one can't be got at with a second spanner, (hence the grinding).
I found that if you lightly hammer an old chisel in from the front you can wedge it between the nut and the floor pan which means the nut can be undone if not too badly corroded. I got away with it, anyway, (just), and it saved getting the grinder out and hacking about.

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 1:01 pm
by jaekl
You can use a second spanner, but it needs to be a slender one. The front gap in the hanger is the access point to get the bolt in and the spanner.

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 5:09 pm
by cormorant
That looks well nigh impossible to me unless one employs a gnome with a tiny spanner! Interesting that the slot is for that purpose, it's not very big though.

Removing rear leaf spring front pin

Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 10:27 am
by Declan_Burns
When I replaced mine I used stainless M6 socket cap screws with a washer soldered on and fitted from the inside. I dressed one side of the washer with a file and this prevents the head turning. It's easy to locate from the inside and a dab of 5 min epoxy helped. It can be held in position by an allen key through the small gap while the epoxy dries and then the new pin is tapped home. On the outside I used a stainless nyloc nut. When I have to replace the bushes it should be easy to remove.

Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 3:34 pm
by rayofleamington
I managed to get a spanner on the first one I did - and have used the grinder every time since! For the time and effort it's not worth undoing when you need to replace the screw anyway.