seized 1954 803cc block

Post by **1954traveller** » Mon May 18, 2009 2:14 pm

Hello, I was wondering if anyone had some ideas as to how to work free a seized 803cc engine block? I was going to pull the plugs and put some 3 and 1 oil in it and let it sit for a bit. I know the engine isn't the best of the lot as far as power is concerned but I would like to keep the project as "original" as possible. Are there any members out there with any restoration pictures of a 1954 traveller out there. The vehicle is rough at this stage and will need quite a bit of work. I'm certain however that it's vintage warrents a careful restoration so any material/ information to help the research phase at this point would be appreciated. I'll post some pictures shortly.
Kind Regards,
Josh

Post by **mike.perry** » Mon May 18, 2009 2:22 pm

You are going to have to strip the engine anyway so pour some penetrating oil down the bores, let it soak for a day or two then try turning the engine over. If no luck then remove the crankshaft and as gently as possible knock the pistons down the bores with a hammer and piece of wood.

Post by **Dean** » Mon May 18, 2009 4:16 pm

Didn't someone on here recommend Diesel as a really good releasing fluid? If you can put up with the smell.... might be cheaper.

Post by **MarkyB** » Mon May 18, 2009 6:22 pm

Any idea why it's seized?
If its been left out in the open with the plugs out then soaking with any kind of penetrating oil is likely to be fairly futile.
If the plugs have been left in you have a much better chance.
If you are going to rebuild it anyway I'd take the head off and have a look see first.

Post by **PSL184** » Mon May 18, 2009 6:31 pm

Coke Cola is a good release agent....

Post by **sirrom** » Mon May 18, 2009 7:07 pm

I acquired a 1098 that had been sitting around for some years. This engine had the head off it and hadnt been turned over at all. I poured diesel down the cylinders over about 4-5 weeks and eventually I could turn the crank. Have now got that motor in my car. Remember keep the top of the pistons covered with the diesel. It does seep through past the rings and will free them up from the bore. Not a quick fix but it will work.

Post by **youngun** » Mon May 18, 2009 9:09 pm

Best way Ive found with seized engines is to be patient and use a lot of diesel. I once managed to free up an engine that had been seized for 60 years. Just pour diesel ontop of the pistons and forget about it for 3 weeks, then go back and give each piston a good whack with a block of wood and a suitably sized hammer (dont go mad obviously!!!). With a bit of luck it will begin to free up after about 3 weeks, if not give it another 3 weeks!!
Its nice to see someone rescuing an 803 instead of just binning it

YG

Post by **1954traveller** » Mon May 18, 2009 10:00 pm

I'm very greatful to everyone. I just paid th guy for the car today and he gave me the vehicle reg. document. It says she has a 948cc in it. I know she's a 1954 and will post some pics soon. I thought the 948cc went into production in 1962, so it seems it must be a replacent? Does anyone know the visual difference between the 803 and 948?
Cheers,
Josh

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon May 18, 2009 10:24 pm

The old 803 has a very basic screw-on oil filter on the side of the block. 948 (a much better engine) has the filter in a can hanging down from the block near the dizzy. Obviously 948 engine are much more common - so the free-ing off may not be so important - but diesel is the way - and then just gently turn the crank back and forth (don't fancy the bash with wood idea!) until the engine comes free. It will then need stripping/cleaning etc before you try to start it!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon May 18, 2009 11:31 pm

Here's one - if you really want to be 'original' ! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Morris-Minor-engi ... 7C294%3A50

Post by **PSL184** » Mon May 18, 2009 11:47 pm

If it is a 948 the block will look like this beneath the exhaust manifold....

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The 948 actually went into the first Minor 1000's in 1956 - It was the 1098 that came in during September 1962....

Post by **1954traveller** » Wed May 20, 2009 7:34 pm

Hello lads, I spent some time out on the traveller today getting it ready for transport. The engine block has MOWOG with a 3 just under it and there are three numbers arranged vertically just to right with a 2 on top and a 4 on the bottom. I think there's an 8 inbetween. There is no 943 and the 029 underneath the manifold as psl148 kindly stated. The MOWMOG 3 stuff I've given is more to the right of psl148s pictire and centered halfway along the block. it is the same distance down from the manifold and has the same sized raised cast numbers/ letters. Besides the seized engine, there is better news. The entire rear wood frame in every section just crumbles in the hand....I think she's got a long road to recovery...I see as this, at least she's rotting in my driveway instead of someones elses!! The new mig welder should come in handy. I was wondering what a teak or mahogony rear frame would look like as the oils in it are extreamely effective to block out water and mildue. Though not very original..
Cheers,
Josh

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed May 20, 2009 7:56 pm

Sounds like quite a resto project! Engine is probably the least of the problems.

Post by **1954traveller** » Wed May 20, 2009 9:41 pm

It's nice to see I can get replacement steel panels for it that are inexpensive from English companies and I will start with the under carriage. As I get one panel in, I'll order up the next. I know she's kind of "knackered" but theres no rush to finish it in record time.
cheers

Post by **PSL184** » Wed May 20, 2009 11:06 pm

Cab you see a tag like this (same side of block but further down, at the front, sort of on top of the sump) ?

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Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed May 20, 2009 11:25 pm

If you buy one panel at a time - you will pay hefty postage costs - unless you have a handy supplier nearby? Otherwise - would be best to plan the purchases in 'lots' to minimise post costs.

Post by **1954traveller** » Thu May 21, 2009 12:32 am

I have the very same tab. It does have the canister type oil filter unit. So should I assume it is a 943cc. I guess I just wanted to know if she is an original engine, obviously not if it's a 943cc. I'm off to purchase a running 1100 hopfully this weekend and wanted to know whether the lump is worth saving. I've loads of classic land rovers and this is the first morris I've owned and am a bit behind on her technical history...Thanks for being patient.
Josh

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu May 21, 2009 10:18 am

That 'tab' says 1100 - and indicates a 1098 cc engine - not a 948 engine ! And none were ever 943!! If it has a can oil filter - then it has been converted to the later screw-on filter - which works well. the early 803 filter does NOT work well!
You say a 'running 1100' - if it's the later 1100 hydr suspension car with the engine set East-West - then that engine can not be used in a Minor !

Post by **1954traveller** » Thu May 21, 2009 1:48 pm

Thank you very much, I appreciate your passion. As I said I'm not an expert nor a novice for that manner. I simply see unfamiliar parts/and numbers in an unfamiliar car. The "other" 1100 is out of a 1964 morris minor convertible. Ill be more careful with me questions from now on.
Josh

Post by **ASL642** » Thu May 21, 2009 2:24 pm

If you're buying an engine from a car and it's possible ask to hear it running before you buy.