THE NUT ON THE OLD ONE IS STUCK SOLID CAN SOMEONE HELP ME PLEASE. CHEERS SIMON.
TRACK ROD ENDS (OR AT LEAST I THINK THATS WHAT THERE CALLED)
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simona1
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TRACK ROD ENDS (OR AT LEAST I THINK THATS WHAT THERE CALLED)
WHEN I TOOK BOTH FRONT WHEELS OFF I NOTICED THAT BOTH TRACK ROD ENDS RUBBERS HAD SPLIT SO SENT OFF FOR NEW ONES I'VE MANAGED TO GET THE NUT OFF AT THE BOTTOM BUT HOW DO I GET THE OLD ONE OFF AND NEW ONE ON.
THE NUT ON THE OLD ONE IS STUCK SOLID CAN SOMEONE HELP ME PLEASE. CHEERS SIMON.
THE NUT ON THE OLD ONE IS STUCK SOLID CAN SOMEONE HELP ME PLEASE. CHEERS SIMON.
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aupickup
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hello
the track rod ends have a taper that fit up onto the steering arm
the nut may need plenty of releasing fluid on
also some track rod wnds had a split pin, so this needs to come out
once you have the nuts off then you can try hitting the underside of the track rod end where the nut is ( leave the nut on for this , so you dont damage the thread
failing that then a nut splitter if the nut still wont come off
once all nuts are off try hitting with a hammer as above
or you may need to buy a track rod end splitter
get the one that has a bolt through the splitter
ps please do not use capitals
the track rod ends have a taper that fit up onto the steering arm
the nut may need plenty of releasing fluid on
also some track rod wnds had a split pin, so this needs to come out
once you have the nuts off then you can try hitting the underside of the track rod end where the nut is ( leave the nut on for this , so you dont damage the thread
failing that then a nut splitter if the nut still wont come off
once all nuts are off try hitting with a hammer as above
or you may need to buy a track rod end splitter
get the one that has a bolt through the splitter
ps please do not use capitals
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mike.perry
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You need to use a ball joint splitter to separate the track rod end from the steering arm. If you can't get the nut undone then soak it in Plus Gas for a few hours and then use a socket and a long bar. If you can't get the track rod end off the steering rack, again soak the lock nut. There should be a flat to get a spanner on or try a pair of mole grips. Make sure the car is supported securely on axle stands
Last edited by mike.perry on Sat May 02, 2009 1:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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alainmoran
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Clean the threads on the rod with a soft wire brush and apply WD-40 or 3-in-1 oil, then leave it overnight.
You will find that there is a flat section on the rod, grip that with a pair of mole grips (umm, I think the right name is locking pliers, but hey my dad always called them mole grips and it stuck)
Then take a ring spanner and apply the open end to the nut on the rod, hook another spanner into the ring at the other end to give you extra leverage and back the nut away from the track rod end.
Now do the same hooking a spanner into the ring trick to wind the track rod end off the bar.
If things REALLY arent moving then you can try applying heat, however in past experience the gas blowtorches dont give enough heat, ideally you need a gas welding set.
When you put it all back together again, clean everything with a soft wire brush, apply a fine layer of copper-ease to the threads and then when it is all re-assembled coat it in a goodly thick layer of copper-ease ... next time you come to take it apart it will come away really easily.
Dont apply copper ease to the tapered shaft.
You will find that there is a flat section on the rod, grip that with a pair of mole grips (umm, I think the right name is locking pliers, but hey my dad always called them mole grips and it stuck)
Then take a ring spanner and apply the open end to the nut on the rod, hook another spanner into the ring at the other end to give you extra leverage and back the nut away from the track rod end.
Now do the same hooking a spanner into the ring trick to wind the track rod end off the bar.
If things REALLY arent moving then you can try applying heat, however in past experience the gas blowtorches dont give enough heat, ideally you need a gas welding set.
When you put it all back together again, clean everything with a soft wire brush, apply a fine layer of copper-ease to the threads and then when it is all re-assembled coat it in a goodly thick layer of copper-ease ... next time you come to take it apart it will come away really easily.
Dont apply copper ease to the tapered shaft.
sometimes the only way is to get it red hot with a welding torch.But try this with one large hammer placed up against the flats on the nut strike the oposite side with a smaller but substantial hammer ,several time this sometimes breaks the rusty bond the nut has,Obviously don't hit the bar (Part of the steering rack)or you could bend it.I'm not sure now ,long time since I did one on a minor, but they are usually left and right handed,so have a look at the new ones to see which way they are threaded.You might be tightening it instead of unwinding(Someone will conferm this soon ) the nut also needs to screw away from the track rod end Only a few mill ,Once you get the track rod end loose carefully count the number of turns it takes to come off then screw the new ones on the same number so the the tracking is near enough,you will still need to have it checked at a garge or you will wear out your tyres, Good luck
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alainmoran
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Yeah, the hammer trick often works well, although I've never thought of doing it with two hammers - nice tip, I'll use that in the future
It may be worth doing the hammer thing before you apply the 3-in-1 (I'd go for the can of oil over the spray, you can usually get it from almost anywhere, wilco, halfords, asda whatever).
Personally I wouldnt be too bothered with counting the turns, once you have the rod-end moving just wind the nut back to where it was and use that as a guide - get your tracking set as soon as you have everything back together but before you add the 'thick' layer of copper-ease.
It's also well worth asking the person setting the tracking to try and balance up the lengths of rod at the ends ... often over sucessive tracking setting the rack will creep to one side or the other, the result is that when you turn in one direction you have more 'steer' than in the other.
By freeing up the nuts and rod-ends and cleaning the rods you make the person who is setting the tracking's life easier, as a result they are more likely to be able to balance up your steering and set it back in the middle again ;)
It may be worth doing the hammer thing before you apply the 3-in-1 (I'd go for the can of oil over the spray, you can usually get it from almost anywhere, wilco, halfords, asda whatever).
Personally I wouldnt be too bothered with counting the turns, once you have the rod-end moving just wind the nut back to where it was and use that as a guide - get your tracking set as soon as you have everything back together but before you add the 'thick' layer of copper-ease.
It's also well worth asking the person setting the tracking to try and balance up the lengths of rod at the ends ... often over sucessive tracking setting the rack will creep to one side or the other, the result is that when you turn in one direction you have more 'steer' than in the other.
By freeing up the nuts and rod-ends and cleaning the rods you make the person who is setting the tracking's life easier, as a result they are more likely to be able to balance up your steering and set it back in the middle again ;)
In the beginning - you say the TRE rubbers have split - these are easily renewed with the TREs still on the rack.
If however, in fact - it's the steering rod gaiters that have split, then yes you will need the TREs off the rack. They really should unscrew easily - both are normal RH thread by the way! Just loosen the lock nut - then unscrew the TRE. Applying heat would be a desperate last measure - it really should NOT be necessary.
If however, in fact - it's the steering rod gaiters that have split, then yes you will need the TREs off the rack. They really should unscrew easily - both are normal RH thread by the way! Just loosen the lock nut - then unscrew the TRE. Applying heat would be a desperate last measure - it really should NOT be necessary.
