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Heat shield kit
Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 6:28 pm
by MarkyB
Can you still get these?
I'm sure you used to be able to get a kit that had heat shields for the carb and fuel pipe once.
Are they still available?
Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 6:34 pm
by PSL184
I know for sure you can get one for a Series 2 landrover from Britpart and I don't see why it couldn't be made to fit an SU easy enough.....
Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 10:06 pm
by mike.perry
The twin carb kit includes a heat shield. It should be easy enough to make one out of a piece of ally.
Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:44 am
by MarkyB
I had a look at the Britpart site but couldn't find any reference to such a thing.
Have you got a link please.
Was it grumpy that used to make them?
Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:57 am
by PSL184
Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 9:23 am
by Kevin
Hi Mark the Grumpy kit you are thinking of was a heat shield for the fuel pump and wasnt much cop.
If you want a heat shield for an SU there is an ebay seller who makes them for all SU's in high quality stainless most of his stuff is listed under Triumph but here is a link and just ask him, he is very helpful.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0305194554
Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 9:53 am
by mike.perry
If you don't have any luck there you could try Burlen Fuel Systems, 01722 412500.
Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 2:24 pm
by bmcecosse
Why do you need a heat shield ?
Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 5:49 pm
by MarkyB
Kevin is right about it being a grumpy kit.
I emailed ESM who say they are going to produce them in the near future.
It was more for the fuel pipe shield I was interested a carb shield is quite easy to fabricate.
Its for a Minor that gets very unhappy when it's hot and in stop start traffic.
Did some other work on it last weekend and there seems to be something odd about the mixture.
The exhaust smells rich but lifting the carb piston made it cut out suggesting weak mixture.
I'm wondering if the float hieght might be too low.
Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 9:05 pm
by mike.perry
My solution to a hot fuel pipe was to cut the fuel pipe near the chassis cross member, slip a length of rubber fuel pipe over it and clamp it up. It works on the Series MM where the exhaust manifold is an inch from the fuel pipe.
Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 9:42 pm
by MarkyB
I like that idea apart from cutting the petrol pipe.
I'll try slitting a length of tube and attach it with cable ties if doesn't want to stay on.
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 12:13 am
by bmcecosse
Just reduce the height of the fuel pump - the problem comes with a weak pump not able to lift the fuel to the high mount position of the pump. Mounting the pump at low level will solve the problem. It can PUMP fuel high, but some pumps are not good at SUCKING warm fuel to any height!
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 9:15 am
by MarkyB
I'd rather try and sort out the root cause than make any major modifications.
We took the water pump off to make sure it had not got the shallower impeller but it was better than the one that was going to replace it.
The waterways visible in the block looked pristine and only clean antifreeze mix came out when I drained the rad.
I'm going have a go with a colour tune to work out what is happening with the mixture.
Maybe it is running weak at tick over as it pulls like a train the rest of the time.
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 9:38 am
by mike.perry
I broke the end of the fuel pipe off so I had to have a new section made and I joined it as above. Lowlight MMs are particularly prone to fuel vapourisation as the fuel pipe runs so close to the exhaust and the carb. did not have the insulating spacer fitted to the later Series MMs
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 10:07 am
by bmcecosse
The 'root cause' is a weak fuel pump!