Morris Minor Owners Club

Hello everyone. Just bought a 1963 Minor in need of some work.

The brakes aren't very good though. Do you think I will need to top up the brake fluid or replace the shoes? Or could it be something else?

What brake fluid do Minor's use?

Thanks for any advice!

Kate<br><br>

They may need adjusting, but if you're used to a modern car the pedal requires a lot more of a shove.

DOT4 brake fluid is the stuff to use, have you found the master cylinder yet?

Do you access it behind the drivers seat?

the master cylinder is under the carpet on the drivers side.lift up the carpet and you should see a large nut.undo it with a plug spanner the fluid leval should be just below the threads.adjusting the brakes is easy.jack up the car,and then use axel stands,remove the wheels.this gives you access to the brake drums.on the frount drums there are 2 adjusters.there is a hole in the brake drum,use a tourch and rotate the drum untill you see a screw head.turn the screw untill it stops and the drum cant rotate,then go back 1click or notch with the screw driver.there should be another adjuster diagonally opposite.same procedure.then do the other side.when the frounts are done,do the back wheels.place chocks under the front wheels take the hand brake off,jack up the car safely place on axel stands.remove the wheels.there is only 1 adjuster on the back same again,turn till the drum stops going round back 1 click,then do the other side,easy if i can do it anyone can ,hope that helps .

dalebrignall wrote:the master cylinder is under the carpet on the drivers side.lift up the carpet and you should see a large nut.undo it with a plug spanner the fluid leval should be just below the threads.adjusting the brakes is easy.jack up the car,and then use axel stands,remove the wheels.this gives you access to the brake drums.on the frount drums there are 2 adjusters.there is a hole in the brake drum,use a tourch and rotate the drum untill you see a screw head.turn the screw untill it stops and the drum cant rotate,then go back 1click or notch with the screw driver.there should be another adjuster diagonally opposite.same procedure.then do the other side.when the frounts are done,do the back wheels.place chocks under the front wheels take the hand brake off,jack up the car safely place on axel stands.remove the wheels.there is only 1 adjuster on the back same again,turn till the drum stops going round back 1 click,then do the other side,easy if i can do it anyone can ,hope that helps .

Thanks very much! That's really really helpful, much appreciated!

I was hoping Roy would provide his link to download the workshop manual, anyone else got the link they could PM to Kate?

(there's a question as to whether it's still in copyright so shouldn't be posted on the board for legal reasons)

Thanks an online manual would be great!

I topped up the brake fluid as it was quite low. I will test it soon and maybe do the adjustments.

My battery is flat so I have topped it up with distilled water and I'm charging it now!

Hmm, another "PSL" car, there seems to be a small collection growing here!

PSL192 has 2!

The brake fluid should be 1/2 an inch below the threads in the master cylinder. If you fill it too high (personal experiance) it can squirt out the top of the cap.

NIce looking car And a really solid garage

Been away playing trains today - I must get some time off! Link sent now with download for the manual !

Thanks so much! Got the manual now so that's really helpful!

I am a real classic car enthusiast but I've got very little mechanical knowledge, well none really.

Been into Beetles in the past but they are a proud lot the Beetle fans. They seem quite competitive.

Thanks for the help!

HELLO I AM IN THE PROCESS OF RENEWING THE BRAKES AND MASTER CYCLINDER ON MY 1960 SALOON BUT I AM HAVING A PROBLEM OF REMOVING THE REAR WHEEL CYCLINDERS FROM THE BACK PLATE I WAS INFORMED THEY JUST SLIDE OUT OF THE BACK PLATE BUT THE HUB SEEMS TO OBSTRUCT THIS I KNOW THIS SOUNDS A BIT ODD CAN ANYONE HELP PLEASE. ALSO IS THERE AN EASIER WAY TO CHANGE THE MASTER CYCLINDER THAN THE HAYNES MANUAL WAY IF SO ANY INFOMATION ON THIS WOULD BE MOST WELCOME


MANY THANKS LOFTY

No need to SHOUT lofty!!
Yes - the rear cylinders (not cyClinders) just sort of 'slide' out of the backplate - no need to remove the hub - just wiggle/push/use a tyre lever - they WILL (see- you got me shouting now) come out.
Master cylinder - you can force the torsion bar out of the way - again use that useful tyre lever - and slide the bolts out past. Many re-fit the bolts the other way round - which is fine - just check the bolt ends are not rubbing/very close to the torsion bar. If they are - cut a piece off! Or - put a washer under the head of the bolt!!

Lofty, I think you need to start a new topic, so people look at your thread. Good luck. Kate