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Cleaning things

Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 8:06 pm
by Lukey
I want to clean my alternator up before it goes on, how would I get it looking new? Also what would be the best way to bring my iron nuts and bolts back to shiny metal?

Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 9:39 pm
by les
Wire brush for the alternator, replace for the nuts and bolts!

Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 10:13 pm
by bmcecosse
Alloy wheel cleaner (from Poundshop) used carefully with a tooth brush does a good job. Try not to let the chemicals go inside. Or as above wire brush it! But again - don't let any stray wires fall inside!
Most bolts /nuts will have been plated - once this is damaged they are going to rust. Don't make the mistake of going for 'stainless' bolts - especially in contact with the bodywork. They set up a 'couple' with steel - and the steel rots away!

Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 11:47 am
by Luxobarge
When I restored my Midget, to get the alternator looking like new, I took it apart and seperated the alloy end castings and grit-blasted them, then lacquered them. Then I painted and lacquered the steel plate centre part and re-assembled (greased the bearings while it was apart too).
But then I'm like that.....

Nuts & bolts I replaced with polished stainless steel - but then .... see above! :wink: :wink:

Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 2:51 pm
by bmcecosse
Well - if the SS bolts are not in contact with the steel body - no worries.

Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 4:40 pm
by webbnuts
Have you seen that advert where the kid tries to fit his scooter in his moms dishwasher? :D

Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 4:49 pm
by PSL184
webbnuts wrote:Have you seen that advert where the kid tries to fit his scooter in his moms dishwasher? :D
That's the kind of thing I do with car parts :-)

Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 10:55 pm
by Lukey
Oh oh oh one last thing before I foget, I've got to clean an SU up that is caked in oxide all over the dash pot, body and on the piston and inside the dash pot. Best gheto way to remove this?

Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 11:17 pm
by bmcecosse
Alloy wheel cleaner from Poundland - plus tooth brush. Clean the brush well afterwards - or it tastes kind of funny when next brushing teeth.

Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 11:31 pm
by Lukey
Ah I will try, I think it's a bit more caked on than you are thinking though. Would wire wool be OK? I'll get some alloy wheel cleaner on Monday.

Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 11:35 pm
by bmcecosse
Yes - wire wool and/or fine wire brush - the type sold for suede shoes is useful. Not too good on the shoes later !

Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 11:54 pm
by PSL184
Frost do an alloy repair/clean/shine kinds spray....

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp? ... ostSubcat=

I can confirm it works and I think RogerRust has used it too....?

Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 1:12 am
by stag36587
I was amazed how effective carb cleaner sprays are - £5 from most motor accessories shops - you could try that too.

Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 1:28 am
by Lukey
I though they were for shifting varnish and gunk? I've put it in a bath of parafin and been wire wooling it which has worked amazingly so far.

Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 9:38 am
by bmcecosse
Indeed - carb cleaner is for varnish and gunk - exactly what will be on your carb! beware - it's Toluene - and highly flammable.

Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 10:04 am
by wibble_puppy
Careful with that wire wool, Lukey, don't rub too hard in case you disturb the nice snug fit of the piston inside the dash pot. Green Scotchbrite is a good thing to use if in doubt. Good luck and hope it turns out well! :D

wibble x 8)

ps if the thing is that badly corroded, check the inside of the holes where the ends of the throttle spindle fit. Not that I have any hard-won recent experience in this area... :roll: :wink: Very fine grit wet-and-dry wrapped round a suitable rod-shaped thing is the best for cleaning out any corrosion in there.

Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 11:40 am
by les
Very fine grit wet-and-dry wrapped round a suitable rod-shaped thing is the best for cleaning out any corrosion in there.
You're not wrong in the method, but just a small point, that area tends to be well worn if the carb is old, so removing much more could cause more air to be sucked in.

Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 5:12 pm
by bmcecosse
Yes - take great care with the piston and bell - just oil and cloth to clean them - perhaps just a little Brasso if sticky - nothing more abrasive! And as above -don't enlarge the spindle holes !

Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 6:19 pm
by wibble_puppy
It's a pretty touchy job cleaning out the corrosion without enlarging the holes, that's for sure 8)

Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 6:36 pm
by linearaudio
Sounds like you are a bit beyond the "varnish & gum" style of carb internals! CAREFULL localised scraping with a blade can be good on old, watery based corrosion, prior to going for the scotchbrite. "Carpride" carb cleaner works for me on gummy bits, £1 at your local cheap shop, probably on the carcare product shelf, just next to the air fresheners! Rogerrust has posted fabulous pictures of his MGB carb and alternator, with details of how he done it.