Page 1 of 1

Front and rear dampers

Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 6:32 pm
by youngun
Next job on the list is to clean and sort out the front and rear dampers. So I have a few questions!

1. How can I tell if the front/rear dampers are knackered?
2. The front damper arms are on a taper onto the damper shaft, yes? How Do i get them off so i can paint the arms, tried minimal force so far?


oh and whilst I think about it, ive got to strip down and clean the leaf springs. What should I use to repaint/cover them and what do I need bush, pad, bolt etc wise to rebuild them?

thanks,
YG

Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 7:30 pm
by PSL184
Dampers - If they are knackered the car will bounce and bounce and bounce when you press down on the corners. It may be due to lack of oil so check that first. If they leak then you need recon ones and whilst they are off the car check for any lateral movement in the arms. Again, if there is excessive movement then you ned to replace them.
Removing dampers.... Heat, plus gas, big hammers and a pry bar etc.....
Rear leafs - Grease them up and wrap them in cloth tape. If they are still holding the rear end upright then they are good :-) There are 2 pads (top and bottom of plate mounting which you can get polybush replacements) then the usual bushes in either end. New U bolts and nuts/washers recommended if you are taking everything apart.

Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 8:33 pm
by bmcecosse
I have never manged to get the arms off the front dampers -don't even try! If they are not obviously leaking (or arms loose in bearings) - they will be ok. Mount them in vice - remove fill plug - carefully remove valve set at the base - make sure you don't lose any springs/washers etc. Move the arm up and down to expell the ghastly old fluid. Refill with new - pump arm again to flush out old fluid. Refit the valve assembly - fill with oil - pump arm to eliminate air - repeat until all air removed.
The grade of oil you use will determine the level of damping. 10W40 oil will be very much asa standard, 20W50 will be more damping, straight 30 oil will be more again. You can experiment until you get a level you find satisfactory for your style of driving.

Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 3:03 pm
by youngun
bmcecosse wrote: You can experiment until you get a level you find satisfactory for your style of driving.
Can I use concrete then? :lol: :lol:

Thanks for the help lads. Pictures to follow.

YG

Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 4:58 pm
by bmcecosse
It has to be a fluid! My Rally Minor had EP90 in the dampers - but I don't really recommend that for road use.

Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 11:36 pm
by youngun
The smoother the better, roads round here are pretty damn rough!

Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 9:32 am
by bmcecosse
I would say 20W50 - or straight 30 oil.

Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 4:50 pm
by Luxobarge
Most motorcycles use "changeable" oil in the front forks, so a bike shop will have a selection of different viscosity oils specifically designed for dampers. :D :D

Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 5:03 pm
by bmcecosse
It's just mineral oil - same as engine oil! Don't pay fancy M/C shop prices!