Morris Minor Owners Club

I,ve been told it makes brilliant exhaust sealer, anybody tried it or heard about it?

No, not tried it - I can't imagine it would withstand the heat though. With proper exhaust paste so cheap why would you use bathroom sealer ?

Bathroom sealer is quite acidic and should not be used on bare steel as it promotes corrosion.
As for exhaust seling I don't know if it would work or not, but the regular paste in a tin always seems to work for me.

Use fire gum on assembly.
use gungum if already fitted

We use a 'proper' silicon exhaust paste, which is brill. It never hardens, as seals a treat, when you need to split the join it's a simple slide off and back on. This stuff is used mainly in motorsport applications and was promoted to us by BTB exhausts. It is not cheap at about £15 a tube, but this has done around 6 exhaust systems with around 12 joins in each, so not bad really.

Yes - there ios a high temperature sealer - sold by RS Components, and from memory rather less than £15/tube - I used to use it on my Induction Furnaces!

We use a 'proper' silicon exhaust paste, which is brill. It never hardens

Ooh Ooh, must have. I just can't get my exhaust manifold joint to stay put for more than a couple of trips.
Could you pm me a brand and source maybe?

I'll try BTB on monday, but their products are on the high side, purely because the build and supply superbly made parts and goods. I have lookeed at RS but cannot see the high temp sealer, but Wurth can supply this and we have a good discount with them, so I'll phone them too.

I've used normal silicon sealer - works fine on manifold to head joints. A lot of V8's just use this as no gaskets fitted as standard.
I also used it on an exhaust joint on my bike - worked fine.
However, I think for a Minor manifold to downpipe connection, fire gum is the best.

Pete

Would this do the trick?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/jointing-paste-15 ... 240%3A1318

I used gripfill to podge up an exhaust years ago the repair lasted for at least a year under my ownership until I passed the car on.( I don't bodge the Mog though).

Ooh Ooh, must have. I just can't get my exhaust manifold joint to stay put for more than a couple of trips.

Some cars just do that

First thing to do is change the manifold!! When the exhaust works loose it wears the mating surface and before long you're on a hiding to nothing.

Engine vibrations will make the joint prone to coming loose. Therefore make sure the engine top steady and rubbers are in good nick. Clutch judder also doesn't help.

Finally if you still get problems you can make up a brace between the exhaust (2/3rds of the way between manifold and engine bay exit) and a bolt at the bellhousing. This reduces the stresses on the manifold joint by a massive amount - the original design is marginal.

Not an issue on most Minors but I think I read somewhere that the silicone fumes screw up the oxygen sensor on fuel-injected cars with engine management systems

To be fair it's partly down to the large bore system I have. It's jumped the mounting at the back twice and that must have caused a bit of movement at the mani even with a mounting midway down the exhaust.
Nevertheless, even scrupulously cleaning back the Marina manifold, the fit was dreadful and loads of paste was used.

I've successfully used bathroom sealer on exhausts in the past, it works very well.
Unfortunately it doesn't last long on the current one (neither does gun gum)
Maybe I'll try Rays brace idea.

Used the extra support idea myself, was installed years ago after seeing it in Practical Classics IIRC. Has worked very well.



Can take a better photo if required.

Looks tidy, I'd like some more pictures please.

No probs. Will try some when I get home tonight, then if they don't come out in the dark will do some more tomorrow morning

Its dark and blowing a gale here, so excuse the slightly dodgy photos!

Showing approx position of the bracket:



Attachment:



All you need is a standard exhaust clamp, a piece of metal exhaust strap and some extra nuts.

Put the clamp on the pipe and attach it with two nuts as normal. Sit the metal strap on the clamp going down to the gearbox bellhousing - you will have to twist the strap to site square on the bellhousing. Put two nuts to hold the metal strap to the clamp, and then attach to the belhousing.

Jobs a good 'un

That's a great idea, will incorporate in mine eventually.