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Clutch Fork sloppy on mount

Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 6:20 am
by sirrom
I have recently rebuilt my engine and now I have noticed that I had a rattling sound while idling.
Upon inspection I have found that there must be a bit of wear in the bush where the bolt goes through to mount it onto the front cover of gearbox.
Have looked through the inspection holes in bell housing and the fork is mounted Ok with bolt and nut but there must have been some wear in the bush that I hadnt pick up on.
Can anybody see any issue leaving it or should I fix it.

Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 10:23 am
by mike.perry
It is really just a case of how much movement there is. If you can reach the clutch forks and move them around then you probably need to do something about them. Are you sure that the bolt is tight? If I remember correctly the hole in the plate is threaded and there is a lock nut on the end of the bolt. I don't know if you can get a spanner on it through the inspection hole. If you over tighten then you may restrict the movement of the forks.
The alternative is to leave it a while and see if it gets any worse.

Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 7:50 pm
by bmcecosse
Is the external return spring on the clutch mech ? It should hold it firmly when not in use!

Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 8:37 pm
by sirrom
Yes the external spring from the lever to the engine backplate is in place and quite tight. This morning I have adjusted the clutch but can still hear it when idling without engaging clutch. As soon as you engage clutch the noise goes.

Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 9:11 pm
by bmcecosse
I would say the return spring will hold it to kill any rattle - must be something else!

Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 9:27 pm
by sirrom
Think I will lift engine out and have a good look

Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 10:32 pm
by mike.perry
It wouldn't be a sloppy starter bendix would it? Mine rattles a bit.

Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 10:36 pm
by bmcecosse
Why would it stop rattling when clutch is 'engaged' - which is confusing in itself! Does it rattle when the clutch is OUT (ie foot is on pedal and no drive is transmitted to the gearbox ) - or when clutch is IN (= 'engaged', drive is transmitted to the gearbox)? If the latter - is there any oil in the gearbox - is it the gears that are rattling ??

Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 10:43 pm
by sirrom
Its not the bendix have been under the car and moved the clutch fork can feel movement and hear the rattle. The rattle is when foot not on pedal but as soon as you push pedal down it stops, doesnt matter if in gear or not. Cant hear when driving, and gearbox is full of oil. Have made a start taken radiator out and got hoist out.

Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 10:46 pm
by rayofleamington
agree with above that 'clutch engaged' may mean different things to different people.
Technically the clutch is open (aka Disengaged / IN) when you press the pedal fully.

Usually the clutch lever return spring is strong - sometimes it can get weak or get replaced by a choke return spring. A good strong spring should stop any lever rattle unless there's something worse wrong.

Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 10:47 pm
by sirrom
I am beginning to think they is a bigger problem and there is only one way around that otherwise wouldnt be confident.

Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 11:23 pm
by bmcecosse
Does the clutch/gearbox work ok otherwise ?? Why not try a stronger spring before launching into engine out mode!

Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 11:29 pm
by sirrom
Nearly there, just have to undo bottom engine bellhousing bolts.

Let you know the out come

Posted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 4:03 pm
by mike.perry
Just another thought. It is not the side of the clutch pedal touching the edge of the hole through the floor pan? Is there any movement on the clutch pedal when you press the brake pedal or vise versa? This would indicate wear in the bushes where the rod goes into the chassis..

Posted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 7:02 pm
by sirrom
Engine out and found that bush in clutch fork where the bolt is was absolutely stuffed really worn oval. Have dug through my spares cupboard and found another one and have fitted that and it sits there quite firmly.
Just as well I took out as I found the pressue plate centre where the carbon thrust sits against wasnt sitting evenly. Its a 1098cc engine and box. So replaced that as well.Next job to fit back in.
Thanks for help guys. Its good to have some other input and the forum makes interesting reading and you can learn somethings just by following some if the Q&As

Posted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 9:24 pm
by rayofleamington
Just as well I took out as I found the pressue plate centre where the carbon thrust sits against wasnt sitting evenly.
This can happen if a clutch spring breaks but there have been a few where the crimp that holds the pivot adjuster screws isn't that good and the clutch can self distruct.

Posted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 6:29 am
by sirrom
Engine back in car and running ok, none of the prior rattles.
thanks

Posted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 10:43 am
by bmcecosse
Yes - the misplaced thrust pad is mentioned in another current post too! It's easily done when struggling to fiught the box and engine back together. Glad you got it sorted.