Morris Minor Owners Club

As a complete novice I have just started to help afriend restore a 1968 Morri 1000 traveller. Hasn't been started for a couple of years. Could someone please tell me the plug & point gap settings as a starting point. I may well be a regular poster on here picking your brains.
Thanks for any help in advance

Hi, welcome.....25 thou for the plugs (0.64mm) and 12 thou for the points (0.3mm)

Hi Martin, You might want to add your location as you might be able to obtain more local assistance in future. I am/was a bit of a novice as well but find this site an invaluable source of help and I'm sure you will also find the same.

Plug gap is 0.025 and points gap 0.010 to 0.012

Someone BMC I think has an online manual they can give you alink to which might come in handy.

Cheers, Jeff

PM sent with manual link.

Plug gap piece of fag packet

Points gap fag paper folded twice

Now off to the pub.

Wow what a response. Thanks so much for the fast friendly help it really is appreciated

Hello Martin,

I concur with the plug gap at 25 thou but points should be set at 15 thou. The more accurately you set the points the better it will run, put a little smear grease onto the cam of the distributor and a couple of drops of oil down the top of the spindle, once you have removed the rotor arm.

Alec

Alec - if your engine can tell the difference of .003 it must be much better than mine

Hello PSL184,

I don't use feeler gauges, I use a dwell meter, however I bet that would show a 0.003" difference. But setting tight means a shorter distance before they close too tight for smooth running.
Really, if information is requested, it should be accurate?

Alec

Alec wrote:
Really, if information is requested, it should be accurate?

Alec

Correct - figures quoted as per the workshop manual which states 12 thou !

Hello PSL184,

I beg to differ, would you care to double check your manual, all my manuals quote 0.014" to 0.016". This is the standard Lucas points gap.

Alec

Alec wrote:Hello PSL184,

I beg to differ, would you care to double check your manual,

Alec

No, not really. You do it your way and I'll do it mine. I really don't want to get into a major discussion about 3 thou thanks....

Just to enter the discussion:- A DKYH4A distributor (Series MM) is 0.012", the rest of the Minor distributors are 0.014" - 0.016"

Hello Mike,

thank you for that as a confirmation of the correct advice to the original poster.

Alec

8009STEVE wrote:Plug gap piece of fag packet

Points gap fag paper folded twice

Now there's a reason to take up smoking.

Now off to the pub.

And drinking...

3 thou really doesn't matter! The smaller the gap - the longer the coil has to charge up between sparks - if the gap is too small the only disadvantage is that it can close up completely all too easily!

Hello BMCE,

we had a discussion on another thread regarding the overheating of coils, the longer the points are closed the more heat is put into the coil.

The specification of 14 to 16 thou is for a reason so why be sloppy? Certainly the Minor engine is very tolerant as it is not very demanding of it's ignition system. I'm sure you are well aware of the requirement the Cooper S engine had for stiffer points springs to give reliable ignition at the higher revs that engine was likely to run at, to keep an adequate saturation time. If closing the points gap would do that as you suggest surely that was an answer?

Alec

The stiffer points on the S dizzy - along with the trapezoidal shape of the cam block - was to delay points bounce, especially on the 999 engine where racing units were being pushed to 10,000 rpm (= 5,000 dizzy rpm). They also used the better 'SA' coil - I don't think coil heating has ever been a problem - except when cars are left with ignition switched on and engine not running!