Morris Minor Owners Club

Hello there first of all a big thank you for all the info I have read on here its been a big help so far, I was lucky to work on these cars as an apprentice at an old established garage where I served my time. Just got my first Moggy (and first car, Biker through and through) a 1966 2 door saloon and it has been converted to unleaded head. It has a temp sender in the head and there is a spade terminal right by it which looks part of the original loom, is this normal and does it light a amber light in the speedo if it gets to hot?
Also read in a previous thread about new shoes and the adjuster not locking the drum up, I have the same problem just put new shoes and cylinders on but even the old ones did not click up, any ideas. Drums a bit scored but not worn.
Done the alternator conversion and about to order a timing chain kit, single chain ok or do you reccomend duplex?
Many thanks again and I will be joining the club soon.

Eddy, welcome. The spade terminal in the original loom was for the blocked oil filter warning. It should light up an amber light on your speedo but most never had this fitted. If you have a temp sender in the head someone must of had a gauge in there before - They were never standard. If you can't get enough adjustment on the brake shoes then the drums are worn or you have the wrong adjusters in. You'd be surprised how worn you drums could be although some on here will say they don't wear, that's not been my experience....

What colour is the wire to the spade terminal?

Check the adjuster action with the drums off - some shoes catch the edge of the adjuster and stop it before it moves the shoes into contact with the drums. There is a HUGE range of adjustment in the snails - hard to imagine them not working - at least with new shoes !
It's also not unknown to put a little shim under the rear edge of each shoe - securely held by the shoe - and this centralises the shoe within the drum -although normally this to just get the very last use of old shoes - and should not be necessary with new shoes. Drums would need to be horribly worn - check them with a steel rule after rubbing away the little ledge of rust/dust that builds up on the edge of the drum.

I have cheated on the back brakes of my MM and put thick washers under the caps on the brake cylinders.
A word of warning. If you try that method with rivited brake shoes you can over adjust worn shoes and score the drums.

Done the alternator conversion and about to order a timing chain kit, single chain ok or do you reccomend duplex?
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Most on here like the duplex - I prefer the single row with rubber tensioners because they are quiet, good luck, John

You really only need to go Duplex if using a fancy high lift cam and/or extra strong valve springs. The single chain Mini style set-up with tensioner is good - but you do need to drill a small hole in the front plate (to take the pivot arm rod) and of course you need to later Mini timing case cover with the side bulge !

Hi there thanks for the replys so far but i think I have worked out what is worn. As you look at the adjuster the groove the pivot sits in is elongated over the years so the adjuster has dropped down closer to the cylinder so you get less adjustment. For now I have put some shims behind the pistons and I can now get adjustment locking the drum, this will do for now until I get new adjusters sorted out. I have just put my carpets back in and before i done it I bought some underfelt/soundproofer from a local carpet place, it is called Blue dream and has a sort of plastic side to it and it has made a great difference.going to order a single row timing chain and I will put a water pump and By-pass hose on while I am in there, got thermostat etc as well do it all in one go.