Morris Minor Owners Club

For anyone who is wondering about the effectiveness of
Waxoyl I have removed the Kick Step plates and the Sill
Finishers(under the doors) in order to get at the innards
to fit seat belts today. The first inspection since I did the
rebuild ten and a half years ago. There was absolutely
NO rust anywhere and all the nuts and bolts undid as though
they had been fitted yesterday!

WOW!! That's a result but I would imagine that your car does not go out all the time!! Still, that's excellent news and a good advert for Waxoyl which I shall be using on my MG, '52 and Traveller..........eventually!

Sounds good. Whats the best way to applie it? Brush, Spray or the presure can. or is it a combination of all three.

Edd

What is the 'Waxoyl' stuff, I assume it is some sort of preservative?

I have used the spray applicators supplied by Waxoyl themselves
but havefound that they work ok the first time but give problems
thereafter,despite being pumped through with white spirit. The
Waxoyl must be as thin as water when applied(stand in hot water
if it is cold weather). the spray was used in all box sections,doors,
sill sections etc. I used a brush on the boot floor and the underside
of the car. ALL nuts and bolts were painted with the stuff when
being re assembled. As you see above they undid with no problems
10 years later. I removed one bolt from each door hinge and
injected the Waxoyl through there into the murky interiors! Since
I had spent two years doing the rebuild I wanted it to last. Seems
very successful so far. I am told that the ideal applicator is
a 'Paraffin Gun' fitted to a compressor.

I was planning to use the Waxoyl spray kit to rust proof my Traveller. WhenI went my local shop I was informed Waxoyl had recalled all their tins and sprayers due to an unspecified fault. Does anyone know anything about this or when we can expect to see Waxoyl back on the market? The only version I can get now is the aerosol and that's very expensive if you've an entire car to do.

MArk
Mark

Have not heard of this action, any chance of going back to the shop to ask why? they must have been told. Seems strange to recall both tins and sprayers, unless it was the COMBINED tin and sprayer ie: the round tins.

We got Waxoyl for sale in tins at the local auto shop. It's only a little shop so I dont imagine they would sell out and have to try reordering very quickly but they still got some.

I was after the waxoyl kit that had the round tin and little bicycle pump to help inject the stuff where other products couldn't reach. As far as I can tell it's the round tins that have been withdrawn.
Has anybody tried using Waxoyl with an ordinary paint sray gun run off a compressor? A friend had one of these but I don't want to ruin it!

was after the waxoyl kit that had the round tin and little bicycle pump to help inject the stuff

I don't know if you've used this before but I had a couple of problems with these. First, the thing has to be nice and warm to be used at all. Best thing to do is to drop the container in a very hot bucket of water. Even like this there is a tendancy at this time of year for the wax to start solidifying halfway along the tube . The other prob is the length of the nozzle and the unwillingness of the tube to bend freely makes applying in those must have areas like the wheelarch lips. Having said all that, given ideal conditions they are a very cost effective way of getting a large amount of waxoyle on a large area in a short time.

Glad to see that my problems using the waxoyl pressure pump weren't down to me ! It worked well enough when I used it to flood the rear seat cavity but it's been poor and unpredictable since then.

Try soaking it and the tube in a hot bucket of water. That might be enough to get it going again.

The round tin spray kit is the one which has given me trouble,
it seems to work the first time and give trouble thereafter.
it now refuses to seal properly to the tin so that it is impossible
to pump up the pressure!! And, because it is such slippery
stuff, I cannot get a rubber washer to seal it. As Peetee says,
the ideal time to apply it is when the car and the tin have stood
in the hot sun all day. You will get Wayoyl oozing out of box
channels through what looked like solid seams...marvellous.

The top of the pressure tin tends to blow off . Mine did !!
I now use an under -seal gun which works with a compressor, and it has an extension pipe to reach box sectins etc . It cost about £10, but it makes the job much easier . Keep the 5lt tin in a bucket of hot water and decant the liquid wax into a 1lt . screw can , which fits the gun . I also use a hot air gun ( carefully ) to keep the gun and wax warm . It took about an hour to Waxoyl the complete car . ( I think the gun is marketed by Clarke ) Arfron

I use a similar gun, and they are available from a few sources. Mine is also from Machine Mart (Clarke) but Sealey do them too. As well as using the tube and doing sills etc with waxoyl, they spray stuff called Schutz which is similar to underseal, but is black and sticky but doesn't dry out like the rubberised underseals. In fact the one I use contains waxoyl, too. I only use it under wheelarches, over the top of the paint, as a stonechip protection. I've done three cars with waxoyl, like that, and compared to the 'bike pump' type I used when I did my moggy, well actually there's no comparison.

One other tip with them: there's a vent hole in the gun. Keep it clear or the waxoyl tin gets pressurised, and if you don't let go quick, it gets very messy!

I've just been applying waxoyl to mine, very messy!! No problems with the spray gear you are talking about on the round tin but you have to clean it very well after with white spirit & blow it through all the nozzles etc (doesn't tast too good.. )

The other thing to bear in mind is the black stuff is thicker & harder to work with than the clear, I wouldn't recommend it for cavities & you can't use it through the extension probe anyway (according to the instructions...)

Trying to do anything but exterior work with it in this weather is useless, I tried to use the extension probe to fill the chassis members, sills & doors etc. Got it running but as soon as you stop the tube volume is so low that it just jams solid, this was after adding a good 20% of white spirit & standing in very hot water.

Hate to say it but Halfords seems to be as good as anywhere for this gear & have plenty in stock near me.

Supposedly works well on existing rust too as incorporates a rust killer so don't worry if you're not doing it after a full resto.

As for filling the cavities other than the rear seals, centre member, boot, and external work I'm going to do as suggested & wait till a hot sunny day!

Hope it doesn't rust away by then...

Supposedly works well on existing rust too as incorporates a rust killer so don't worry if you're not doing it after a full resto.

Yeah, the only trouble is that if you have to do any welding after it is an absolute pig to clean off so that you don't get lots of fire and smoke!

Best to do ALL the welding first (if you can) before applying the stuff. I did consider applying it to the half of my MG that I have done to give protection over the winter months but I did not bother as I would prefer to do it all at once. It should (I hope) be alright in a garage over winter......................

Hmm, haven't we had a post somewhere about removing wax oil?
Presumably it burns quite weel then??

I think someone said you could get something from a local tyre fitter that was in the "slap it on & run like f***"chemical category that works really well.

Out of interest did you try a degreaser like gunk or white spirit to remove it?? (Just interested to know if this works...)

Oh yes it burns quite well and smokes a LOT!!!

Gunk is quite good but white spirit is not much cop (bit too greasy I think).

Usually if you are welding the bottom of a box-section and the box-section is filled with waxoyl then you have problems as you can't get inside the box section to remove the waxoyl!!

If it's just on the bottom of the piece you are welding then it's easy enough (relatively) to remove because you can get at it.

I have set MANY fires through not spotting waxoyl etc. D'oh!

Interestingly enough and contrary to popular opinion brake fluid is not flammable but it smokes like hell!!!

contrary to popular opinion brake fluid is not flammable

yes it blumming is!;-)!! it needs the right conditions (like pouring it on a hot exhaust manifold) but wehen it goes it goes like rocket fuel!!!!