Wolseley Brake photos
Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 8:03 pm
Hi all,
Inspired by Pyoor Kate's video upload, I thought I would post some photos of my new Wolseley front brake conversion. Lower-tech, but hopefully it will help anyone who is thinking about it but not sure whats what. Its not a full photo rebuild but just snapshots on the way. Hope it helps.
Cheers,
Russ
1) old brakes (actually reasonably new! Replaced middle of last year with all new cylinders and working very well indeed - upgrade is due to a concurrent engine upgrade which the insurers would likely ask for a brake upgrade too - so bit the bullet).
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2) With shoes, springs and snail cam adjusters removed. I used brake cleaner to get rid of the dusty gunge (takes a lot of the unpleasantness out of the job). The hub was easily removed with a cheap hub puller from Machine Mart; just whip out the split pin, undo castelated nut, and ease off with puller. Both my hubs stayed in one piece so nothing to do except put back on at the appropriate time - repacked with fresh grease of course. Passenger side hub nut is a left hand thread. 13/16ths socket, and using a 2' breaker bar makes it less testing.
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3) This is what you are swapping out, along with the brake packplate and wheel cylinders. I had to reuse the set screws which locate the brake drum on the wheel hub.
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4) This is a Wolseley backplate with new Wolseley cylinders fitted (you can use Moggy ones, just redrill a few holes in the backplate. I used Wolesely items as I heard that the brakes are better balanced as a result). 4 bolts fix it onto the stub axle, pattern is exactly as per Morris Minor backplate (later ones anyhow; not sure about earlier ones I guess the same for all 7 inch front brakes, but you should check). I would use new bolts in hindsight!
<br>
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5) All refitted and and coppereased. I tighted the hub nut until there was no rocking in the hub and, ensuring the castelated nut was correctly placed to refit the split pin through the hole in the end of the threaded bit at the end of the stub axle, replaced the pin. Grease retaining caps were also refilled with fresh grease. Note old brake backplate in background.
<br>
<br>
6) The end result - very similar to original, just bigger and better. Just bleed, road test, check for leaks / tightness and then adjust up.
<br>
<br>
Inspired by Pyoor Kate's video upload, I thought I would post some photos of my new Wolseley front brake conversion. Lower-tech, but hopefully it will help anyone who is thinking about it but not sure whats what. Its not a full photo rebuild but just snapshots on the way. Hope it helps.
Cheers,
Russ
1) old brakes (actually reasonably new! Replaced middle of last year with all new cylinders and working very well indeed - upgrade is due to a concurrent engine upgrade which the insurers would likely ask for a brake upgrade too - so bit the bullet).
<br>
2) With shoes, springs and snail cam adjusters removed. I used brake cleaner to get rid of the dusty gunge (takes a lot of the unpleasantness out of the job). The hub was easily removed with a cheap hub puller from Machine Mart; just whip out the split pin, undo castelated nut, and ease off with puller. Both my hubs stayed in one piece so nothing to do except put back on at the appropriate time - repacked with fresh grease of course. Passenger side hub nut is a left hand thread. 13/16ths socket, and using a 2' breaker bar makes it less testing.
<br>
3) This is what you are swapping out, along with the brake packplate and wheel cylinders. I had to reuse the set screws which locate the brake drum on the wheel hub.
<br>
4) This is a Wolseley backplate with new Wolseley cylinders fitted (you can use Moggy ones, just redrill a few holes in the backplate. I used Wolesely items as I heard that the brakes are better balanced as a result). 4 bolts fix it onto the stub axle, pattern is exactly as per Morris Minor backplate (later ones anyhow; not sure about earlier ones I guess the same for all 7 inch front brakes, but you should check). I would use new bolts in hindsight!
<br>
5) All refitted and and coppereased. I tighted the hub nut until there was no rocking in the hub and, ensuring the castelated nut was correctly placed to refit the split pin through the hole in the end of the threaded bit at the end of the stub axle, replaced the pin. Grease retaining caps were also refilled with fresh grease. Note old brake backplate in background.
<br>
6) The end result - very similar to original, just bigger and better. Just bleed, road test, check for leaks / tightness and then adjust up.
<br>
