Morris Minor Owners Club

Hello all,

Fianlly found the problems of the mysterious stalling and jerky ride...

The points in the fuel pump have had it. Not only are they black as soot, they are pitted, worn etc.

I bought some new points from one of the usual suppliers, but it is missing one of the pivots.

It´s the long one at the bottom if you look at the pump when mounted.

Am I supposed to be taking it out and put it in the new points?
Last thing, I couldn´t get any double points, so I got some a single one, does this matter? I´d rather have a single good contact than double knackered ones..

Thanks

As long as the single points fit your pump it does not matter which you use.
My original Series MM fuel pump had double points, I've probably still got it somewhere, but I can't recall seeing any double points since so maybe they are obsolete. If I am wrong someone will correct me.
There are a few diagrams in sect. B of the Workshop Manual which may be of use

Double points is a later innovation - single points is much more original! If the pivot fits - use it! Give the old points a rub up with emery etc - and carry them in the car - then you won't ever need them. But someone else may!

Thanks for that.

I will however give my supplier a ring today and ask if the set is supposed to include the pivot.

just changed mine no pivot with new set just use the old one

How did you get it out?

Sadly I don't currently have the right tools to take it out of the car... so it has to be done in situ

i'm assuming you mean the long pin pivot that goes through the bottom set of pionts and the arched body of the pump. If you are then it just pulls out use a pair of long nosed pliers.Standard spanners and screw driver are all you need to get the pump out of the car,The only thing that needs care is the connector from the tank to the pump,possible to break the connector off if it is corroded on, take the pump to carb off at the carb.Much easier to do with the pump on the bench. Don't think I would try with the pump in situ,if you drop one of the screws gauranteed to loose it down the bodywork or floor,and if you loose the pin your back to su to try to get another. Good luck with it

On the points I've bought in the past the pivot was included. I wouldn't recommend changing them in situ - much better with the pump on a big clen flat surface.

In MG circles some think that the twin points are no better - possible worse regarding durability.

What can help prolong point life - is to fit a large capacitor (radio suppressor) on the electrical feed to the pump.

I'll get some pliers and give it a try in situ.

I do have some spare pumps if I need them.

Regarding tools, all I have is my socket set 1/2" upwards and one open ended spanner (1/2"- 9/16")

Soon I will have my tools all in one place again.

Seems like you should have put a set of tools on your Christmas pressy list!

You can change the points in situ to get you out of trouble, but its very fiddly. However you really need to take the pump off and set it up correctly by adjusting the overthrow as per the manual you'll never do that in situ.

I wonder why this reminds me of last year's LEO

The word dynamo springs to mind... :)

I'll see what I can do regarding these points.

I wonder why this reminds me of last year's LEO

because someone had an SU pump with an SU sticker round it and the cap which had kept them from checking thier pump points... and needed new pump points.

I've got the points in, and the pump is working, but surely the should not be a spark at the points?

What am I doing wrong?

I think that's normal because there's no suppressor.

Which is why I suggested adding a suppressor on the outside of the pump.

I will do

One thing I did notice when doing the points on mine (and comparing it to the picture in the manual, is that I already have some sort of red plasticky thing with wires on leading from the base of the point blade to the 2BA bolts that has the copper wire from the pivot system on.

Is this a suppressor?

Can you post a picture of it?