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ok heres my new moggie - Nobby - needs a bit of paint.

Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 10:07 pm
by nslocomotive2
Ok here she is,

her interior is scrap (drop the 's' is probably more fitting) and she needs a coat of paint. I here grumblings for and against synthetic paints and I am looking to get twos years out of this car as a runner before doing a bare metal job on her, by that time I will have brenda back on the road, I hope complete with new sills. she is solid underneath and is fully MOT'ed being used a s a daily runabout.

I want a hardy paint job that will last two years, and look less like a patchwork job. I have a weeks holiday in FEB and I plan to give her a good rubdown and a paint job then if I can.

What do you guys think?
ImageImageImageImageImageImage
she will be painted original colour, and I don't have spray gear. in the past i have been successful with aerosols

Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 6:34 am
by Redmoggy
Seems there are a few people that like syth paint. From my own experience its awfull stuff and a complete waist of time when good celly is available at £15 a litre.
Im gonna duck my head down now.
All the best
Rod

Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:04 am
by PSL184
Agreed - Celly will do perfectly well....

Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:13 pm
by ASL642
If you only have aerosols so long as you do the prep work well it should be ok. Dont spray when the weather is too moist as it upsets the paint setting /hardening. :wink:

Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 4:02 pm
by PSL184
.... or too cold as the paint will "bloom" (Go cloudy) :-)

Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 6:09 pm
by MarkyB
Seems doubtful that February will have weather good enough for spraying.
Why not cut back the original paint then touch up the bits that don't match with aerosols that do match?
Also, it may be time to give your camera lens a clean or pick a less foggy day to take pictures :)

Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 7:47 pm
by nslocomotive2
Ok, Im convinced celly and prep work it is! The reason I was asking is because the car has been attacked with a paint brush and the wrong colour synthetic in a lot of places, and the prep work will be a lot harder as a result, but I reckon I can step up to the task, I have plenty of spare body parts to swap bits while working on them :-) I might go down that route if I feel I need to.

I have had some good results with celly and aerosols before on Brenda's wing, I took it back to bare metal and built the layers up gently over a few days then used some cutting paste to get a deep shine.

and yes I will take some clearer shots if I can this weekend, the shots were from my phone :roll: next time I will use a proper camera.

Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:01 pm
by PSL184
I'm sure you know this already, but just in case not, celly won't go on top of synthetic without a barrier layer or better still, take it back to bare metal....

Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:11 pm
by nslocomotive2
Yea I was aware of that, that's why I was contemplating using the synthetic, but as they say, if a jobs worth doing .....

better get the can of Nitromorse ready :-)

Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 8:16 pm
by PAULJ
Redmoggy wrote: good celly is available at £15 a litre.
Im gonna duck my head down now.
All the best
Rod
Where from? I have just paid £25 a litre and could only get it from an auto finishers. It took 10 litres<br>Image<br>

Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 8:31 pm
by PSL184
Our local motor factors do it for £18/litre mixed or black / white at £15/lire....
10 litres - my god, thats one paint job that will definately last :-)

Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 9:24 pm
by PAULJ
Well when you concidder the price of getting it done professionally spending another £100 to pile it on seemed worthwhile dont you think?

Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 11:06 pm
by PSL184
Definately - I used almost 5 litres on the last one I did and I only stopped then cause I got bored :-)

Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 11:09 pm
by alanworland
With all that paint on can you still shut the doors?!!!

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 12:26 am
by stag36587
PSL184 wrote:I'm sure you know this already, but just in case not, celly won't go on top of synthetic without a barrier layer or better still, take it back to bare metal....
Actually I've got a similar issue that I'm thinking about (in the wee small hours when I need to cheer myself up) when I eventually get round to repainting mine. I can't decide whether to take all paint off to bare metal or whether to paint on top of the very faded original where it is still sound in many places - esp roof, bonnet, etc.

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 7:48 am
by PSL184
Depending on year your car could have been painted with synthetic so at the very least spray over the whole car, once prepped, with a barrier or sealer..... No need to remove paint back to bare metal unless you're really a gluten for punishment :-)

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 8:35 am
by Redmoggy
Celly from Express pains in Portsmouth £15 a litre. If you start from bare metal at least you know what you have got. Try Lechler green 2K high build primer. It also acts as an etch and doesnt sink like celly primers. Its filling powers are incredible,i rough all filler work out in 40 grit add to coats of this and a guide coat. Flat and re-prime and jobs a good en!

Rod

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:35 pm
by youngun
Using aerosols is ok for small stuff, but doing the whole car seems a bit optimistic. You'd probably end up with tone variations as well from panel to panel unless you did the whole lot at once, and that would mean a lot of cans. Considering 8-10 litres does a car and a 500ml can costs what, 5 quid? well you do the maths!!

YG

Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:11 am
by bigginger
OK, £80 - £100. Seems pretty reasonable to me :D

Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 8:57 am
by alex_holden
youngun wrote:a 500ml can costs what, 5 quid?
A 400ml can costs £13.23 from ESM.