Morris Minor Owners Club

Right...so here's where I'm a bit at a loss...

I was installing the clutch with the engine out and once that was installed, I turned my attention to the crankshaft pulley nut. The manual specifies 70 ft/lbs.

I could not keep the engine from turning, so I figured I'd install the engine and use the gearbox and handbrake to keep the car still so I could torque it down.

I've got the engine in (I'm quite thankful for the hoist and load leveler I picked up...did it by myself) and bolted in...

I've not been successful at tightening the nut.

So a couple questions...

How can I tighten the nut with the engine in situ?

Am I an idiot and need to remove the engine?<br><br>

If you have the car in gear and handbrake on the car shouldn't be moving. Do you have it in 1st or reverse gear as these give the highest resistance?

The handbrake/gears adds up to too much 'wind-up' to do the job properly. You need to snag the starter ring gear - with a screwdriver or similar. Certainly no need to take the engine back out! But to be honest - as long as the starting handle dog is up tight - I wouldn't worry too much about getting it precisely to 70 ft lbf.

Matt
I have just this afternoon managed to undo the nut on my 69 Traveller after many hours trying different methods over several days.
The advise given on the forum to shock it off with the car in 4th gear and handbrake on full does work, but it can take some time in time and I had to make a special spanner as well as chock the rear wheels.
I would have thought tightening it up would be the same, but with the chocks on the forward side of the rear wheels. Then tightening up with a ring spanner or socket to the required torque, maybe using an extension bar if necessary.
I have read on the forum that loctite is recommended and of course the locking tab.
Not sure if shocking the nut tight is a good thing, maybe someone will advise

Leo 69 Traveller

The easy way to remove the dog - is by using the starter. The gears thing has too much windup and makes the job ubber difficult. Just fit the spanner/socket and rest it on the nearside chassis leg - then jab the starter - with ign off of course!

Thank you. I'll re-engage in the morning. And I'll sleep better knowing the engine can remain where it is.

M<br><br>

Yes I did try the starter motor method but it would not work for me, I think mine had not been disturbed since new so was a bit stubborn to say the least.

Leo

Thank you. I'll re-engage in the morning. And I'll sleep better knowing the engine can remain where it is.

M<br><br>

Never known the starter method to fail - just give it a bit of free movement so it really bangs the spanner when it hits the chassis leg - which can be protected with a bit of timber if you like !

Nice engine there Matt, nothing fancy just nice clean detail.

If you have the car in gear and handbrake on the car shouldn't be moving. Do you have it in 1st or reverse gear as these give the highest resistance?

1st / reverse give the lowest resistance - 4th gear would be better.
However the best idea is to lock the flywheel. This can be done in situ but is better with a helper - they can hold a BIG screwdriver between something solid and the flywheel (e.g. remove starter and use the ring gear).

As for removal - I only learnt the starter motor trick late in life but it's never failed for me either. On my first Minor I had the car in 4th gear against bricks and handbrake on, but managed to drive it over the bricks when trying to undo the pulley!

On Minis - an old big-end shell sat in the ring-gear teeth locks the flywheel perfectly - not sure it will work on a Minor though.

PM sent

Leo wrote:Yes I did try the starter motor method but it would not work for me, I think mine had not been disturbed since new so was a bit stubborn to say the least.

Leo

Worked well for me - so easy as well