Morris Minor Owners Club

Folks,

I have a few engine issues and I'm hoping that someone on here will point me in the right direction.

I had a problem, the engine wasn't getting a spark. So Christmas eve i replaced the rotar arm, distributer cap, the points and off she went on the first run over.

She was running very well she drove for about 10-15 miles. Then all of a sudden there was a huge backfire and she started to stutter. She drove for another mile then died. After about 10 mins she started again, drove for about a mile. Again after about 10 mins she drove another mile and died.

Besides the 7inch hole in the scilencer I have no idea whats wrong with her. She is getting fuel and there is a spark.

I'm thinking the timing but she did drive perfectly for the first 10 miles or so.

Any help

George

Did you change the condenser?

yes

Id go for a new coil, When it stops chedk to see if the coil is hot but be carefull it can be boiling if its breaking down. Maybe why it starts again after ten mins.

hello i would certanly try another coil what you describe sounds like coil packing up,,,gandad

Sounds plausable.

The backfire could well be unburnt fuel going into the exhaust and when it does ignite - huge bang and potentially a hole/split in the silencer!

Had an unusual failure some time ago. The rivet holding one of the terminals to the coil worked loose causing the engine to cut out. It would then start again when it felt like it for no apparent reason. It took me a while to spot that one. It is worth a check otherwise I would go for a coil failure or condenser if you fitted a used one.


Question
Is there a bench test for a coil without having to fit it to the car? I have a box of old coils but I haven't a clue which ones work.

mike.perry wrote:Had an unusual failure some time ago. The rivet holding one of the terminals to the coil worked loose causing the engine to cut out. It would then start again when it felt like it for no apparent reason. It took me a while to spot that one. It is worth a check otherwise I would go for a coil failure or condenser if you fitted a used one.


Question
Is there a bench test for a coil without having to fit it to the car? I have a box of old coils but I haven't a clue which ones work.

hello just cable tie acoil to side of other one connect up and try grandad

Trouble is some are spade and some are bolt connectors on the LT leads and some HT leads are push fit and others are screw fit.
Just wondered if there are any meter readings to check condition.

I believe you can check the resistance between the 2 small spade terminals but I cant remember the "good" range

I would say it's likely the points have simply closed up. Coil is an unlikely possibility - they really are very reliable. As suggested just test your old coils by substitution on the engine - after checking with a meter - should have ~ 3 ohms across the LT terminals.

mike.perry wrote:Had an unusual failure some time ago. The rivet holding one of the terminals to the coil worked loose causing the engine to cut out.

I had exactly the same thing a few year back, led me right up the garden path!!!..... the connection would get hot due to the high resistance, eventually lose conduction then work again for a bit when cool. Mine backfired and all sorts as it coughed and died.....very exciting in the rush hour on the A2!! Each time you fiddled with any wires in the area it seemed to be ok for a few miles then it would happen all over again!! I soldered the rivit to the spade body in the end (was a poor student)....not recommended but it worked ok for another 5 years!!.....worth a check.....

We had a similar problem in our Mini the other week. The symptoms were exactly as described (though without the ventilated silencer!)
It turned out to be the new condenser fitted 80 miles earlier at servicing time. Replaced the old, which had only done about 1000 miles, and (touch wood) it has been fine since.

guys tried a new coil, same problem drove for about 20 miles and dies again.

thankfully this time it left the new exhaust alone!!

I'll order a new condensor and see if that does it

Change the rotor arm, preferably for an old stock one. There was a batch that was lasting less than 500 miles, and I had one that gave the same sort of problems, running for 20 miles and then stopping. An hour later, all OK again. As soon as the arm was changed, the problem went away.

Also, you say getting fuel, but is it a consistent delivery? This type of problem can also be caused by the vent in the fiuller cap being blocked. A vacuum builds up in the tanl, the pump can't get fuel through, the car stops. Vacuum slowly releases so when you check pump all appears OK. Unlikely from what you say, but worth checking.

George,

did you ever get to the cause of this problem, mine has been doing the same thing, the rescue man said it was probably the condenser after poking around with a multi-meter for a few mins, I have a new one, and I'm planning to swap it out tomorrow, just wondered if you found it was something else.

Hard to see how he diagnosed condenser with a multi-meter! Shooting in the dark I think. Best just to try another condenser - if that cures the problem then throw the old one away!

indeed hence the question, I have another running engine in Brenda, so If this dosent fix it I will swap the coil too and see if that helps.

Often when the condensor is on its way out apart from the points burning faster they can also discolour.

new condenser and a new coil and its still a non-starter. I see no spark at the points, and Im not sure I know what to do next the spring to the points looks ok, and the insulating washers are all in place, im at a loss as to what to check now. I might try another condenser as the one I fitted was given to me by someone who wasnt sure if it was new or not...