Morris Minor Owners Club

hi team, was fitting a new rear wing yesterday. all was well, fixed the lights back on and when putting the bulbs back in the stop/tail light inners broke. think its the sprung loaded plate that the wires are on has disintergreated. the question is can you fix this or do i need to buy a hole new lamp base?

sounds like a new plate unless you can get a second hand one, maybe put a wanted add in

if you've got the tools skill and patience i'm pretty sure you an transfer the bulb holder from another base unit - badly corroded base units should be easy to come by...

Would need to see a picture of what you have - but you should be able to 'borrow' the inmer parts from a different unit and get them in there somehow.

hello i have done them with the bulb holder from modern carsinfiled with silicone to make tighter fit but did work well,,,grandad

its the later type chrome base from a 64 saloon if that any help <br><br>

They are fairly cheap to buy new and even cheaper second hand off fleebay - Probably be your easiest option unless you have some old bits of brass lying about and you could make some new contacts....

don't know about the cheap bit £70 each for the later chromed ones,I would try to repair first,unless the chrome is done for and you are wanting pristene condition,The last one I did I soldered wires up to make the connections.

Even if you have to buy a new stop/tail lamp for a Traveller (just get the inner part!) - and use the guts from that - it must be much less than a new lamp for a saloon!

erm yeah £70 bit much this close to christmas. think i got some brass in the basement. is the plate made from brass? so would i just cut some brass to size and solder the two wires to the back?<br><br>

Errr -NO! The two contacts need to be insulated from each other - and from the light base. And the whole lot needs to be 'sprung' so that it makes good contact with the bulb when you fit it into the holder. Hence - best to get the guts from another lamp and find a way to insert that - such as the silicone sealant mentioned already.

If you're really stuck and need the car on the road NOW, it's possible to solder wires direct to the bolb and sort it out properly later. Not recommending it, but if needs must...

ok so if i cann't find a cheep saloon base, would a new traveler one be any good for gutting? there less then a fiver.

Very different internals, I think you'll find - I stand to be corrected, though

I'm sure would need much modifying - but it would give you a new twin contact base - that's all I was thinking of!

bigginger wrote:If you're really stuck and need the car on the road NOW, it's possible to solder wires direct to the bolb and sort it out properly later. Not recommending it, but if needs must...

If its just the sprung bit that contacts the end of the bulb just do as above solder to bulb and to the sprung base. did this to an mgb once lasted for the rest of the time I had the car about 3 years.Bet the new owner cursed if he ever needed to do a quick bulb change.

cool ok, soldering the bulb on it is. thanks team

As an aside, has anyone tried the LED bulbs, and if so, what is your opinion? Worth the cash?

anyone tried the LED bulbs, and if so, what is your opinion? Worth the cash?

Hi,

I've had a pair of tail/stop lights since Feb last year.

The seem brighter than the filament bulbs (sidelights) and the brake lights have a sharper on/off than the filament ones (my opinion)

So far, the brake light switch seems to like them as well - my theory is that switching the 2x21 watt brake lights (that's about 3.5 Amps) tends to arc cross the brake light switch and blacken the contacts.
That's for the newer switches.

All I can say is that I'm happy with the lighting - and that the brake light switch has lasted 10 months.

Colin