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Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2003 9:32 am
by Kevin
Its a good couple of inches difference when I get home tonight I will let you have the exact width measurements, and I would not have thought it was possible without major surgery.
Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2003 11:26 am
by rayofleamington
Ther fit of the front doors is more likely to be effected by the A and B pillar - I would have a good look at those first!
Are your hinges worn, and does the doorpost flex when you lift the door/ push it down?
Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2003 6:52 am
by Kevin
Geoff the measurement along the waist line is 36 1/2" on my 2 Door how does that compare to yours.
Posted: Mon Nov 03, 2003 4:59 am
by fweddy
Geoff - you'll need a good selection of spanners while you work on a MM - Especially when you take the front suspension out - I think I had all my tool box down there working on it. Unless NZ is unique??? I was using A/F and Witworth
Posted: Mon Nov 03, 2003 1:08 pm
by rayofleamington
The A and B pillars are are surprisingly rust free,
My guess is that the A-pillar is not rust free - If it flexes at all then it is likely to be rotted and patched from benind the front wing.
The strength of the A-pillar comes from the structure of the inner wing and the triangulating panel - often the triangulating (cover) panel is patched with no consideration for strengthening the rotted inner wing around it - the result is dodgy A-pillars.
Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2003 9:55 am
by rayofleamington
Well there are some holes in the inner wing and the triangulating cover plate, but nothing extreme so it should till be strong.
On a car like that I would remove at least the bottom 6 " of the A-post cover plate to repair the inner wing behind it.
1 or 2 mm flexing sounds normal if the hinges are rusted up tight - you didn't mention that part! This flexing would be enough to upset the door fit as it stresses the A-post a lot. Not sure if it would account for all of the alignment problem, but time will tell.