Midget engine - straight swap?
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Midget engine - straight swap?
Hi all,
Can anyone tell me:
would this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MG-Midget-1275-En ... 240%3A1318
fit straight into a minor as is, please?
Cheers
Russ
Can anyone tell me:
would this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MG-Midget-1275-En ... 240%3A1318
fit straight into a minor as is, please?
Cheers
Russ
Not sure about starter motor. I used a 1098 starter but I was also using a 1098 backplate - I don't know if the mounting holes are in the same place on a midget? Dizzy - No. Both manifolds would fit but they are not ideal. Carb would be too small.... Alternator or dynamo - YES !!
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It will fit as a complete unit - BUT, the Spridget has hydraulic clutch actuation - and the Minor is mechanical. The Spridget clutch is also smaller diameter and stiffer springs. So - you would need to convert the car to hydraulic actuation - OR change the Spridget clutch etc for the Minor items - which may mean modifying the Minor flywheel to fit on the tail of the crank. That's the way i would go! Dizzy is 25D type - so yes a Minor dizzy will fit - but won't be ideal advance curve - and as Matt says - better to source and use a decent single carb and manifold, and a decent exhaust manifold and system. The Spridget exhaust manifold etc won't fit in a Minor. And yes a Minor starter will fit - although there has been some talk of the bendix fouling the flywheel slightly (although I think that may be with Marina/Ital swaps - Spridget should be fine) - so that would need checking out!



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Straight swap. Front mounts are the same, use the Minor rear gearbox mount, including the steady cable. Minor starter OK, distributor needs to be Midget spec (Minor gives too much mechanical advance), manifolds as suggested, HIF44 on a decent manifold (MG Metro is an example) and a bigger exhaust than a standard Minor. The standard Minor carb is much too small and would not allow the engine to run properly at all. The exhaust is the only real expense as it should be an LCB, and secondhand they are not very common.
The steady bar to the bulkhead will need to be turned upside down as the block is taller - it will also need a small amount of filing to miss the heater tap, which is at an angle on the 1275 engine. Top hose to the radiator will either need to have an elbow, or, for the 'original' look, get a thermostat housing from a 'B-series' engine and open up the 3 holes to 3/8" and it fits perfectly! All other hoses use standard Minor.
Although smaller than a 1098, the Midget 1275 has a diaphragm clutch and is very easy to use. The 1275 clutch is no problem, just swap the release arm for a standard Minor one and connect to the standard Minor mechanical release mechanism. That's what I have, albeit with a special driven plate for the Toyota gearbox.
Some thicker oil in the dampers all round, front anti-roll bar and uprated front brakes will make a good fun car. Maybe a touch of lowering to improve the handling?
The steady bar to the bulkhead will need to be turned upside down as the block is taller - it will also need a small amount of filing to miss the heater tap, which is at an angle on the 1275 engine. Top hose to the radiator will either need to have an elbow, or, for the 'original' look, get a thermostat housing from a 'B-series' engine and open up the 3 holes to 3/8" and it fits perfectly! All other hoses use standard Minor.
Although smaller than a 1098, the Midget 1275 has a diaphragm clutch and is very easy to use. The 1275 clutch is no problem, just swap the release arm for a standard Minor one and connect to the standard Minor mechanical release mechanism. That's what I have, albeit with a special driven plate for the Toyota gearbox.
Some thicker oil in the dampers all round, front anti-roll bar and uprated front brakes will make a good fun car. Maybe a touch of lowering to improve the handling?
Last edited by IslipMinor on Thu Nov 27, 2008 9:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Richard

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You can use the Midget clutch without converting to hydraulics.
Take the Minor clutch relay shaft and weld 1 in onto the arm that attaches to the clutch pedal and re drill the hole. This will increase the movement on the clutch pedal and reduce the pedal pressure required so that it feels like a standard 1098 clutch. Also use the 1098 clutch forks and for good measure you can use a roller bearing clutch release bearing. I have the setup on my 1275 traveller and it works perfectly.
A couple of other alterations:- The heater tap angle is at 45 deg to the cylinder head on the Midget head so the Minor heater tap may foul the battery. You may have to swap it for the Midget unit.
The base of the tap will interfere with the stabilizer bracket so you will have to cut a V out of the bracket.
You can buy a 1275 / 1098 conversion thermostat housing from Birmingham MMC.
You will need to fit some thick washers between the fan blades and the water pump pulley to clear the breather trap on the timing case. These washers will need flats cut on one side to clear the water pump shaft.
The 1275 engine operates on a negative crankcase pressure breathing system, that is the pressure has to be sucked out of the engine via a breather pipe from the breather trap to the carb or to a breather control valve on the inlet manifold. Failure to do this will result in excessive oil leaks from the rear of the engine
If you are using the gearbox as well this is externally identical to the 1098 box with closer ratio gears and automatic reversing light switch.
Take the Minor clutch relay shaft and weld 1 in onto the arm that attaches to the clutch pedal and re drill the hole. This will increase the movement on the clutch pedal and reduce the pedal pressure required so that it feels like a standard 1098 clutch. Also use the 1098 clutch forks and for good measure you can use a roller bearing clutch release bearing. I have the setup on my 1275 traveller and it works perfectly.
A couple of other alterations:- The heater tap angle is at 45 deg to the cylinder head on the Midget head so the Minor heater tap may foul the battery. You may have to swap it for the Midget unit.
The base of the tap will interfere with the stabilizer bracket so you will have to cut a V out of the bracket.
You can buy a 1275 / 1098 conversion thermostat housing from Birmingham MMC.
You will need to fit some thick washers between the fan blades and the water pump pulley to clear the breather trap on the timing case. These washers will need flats cut on one side to clear the water pump shaft.
The 1275 engine operates on a negative crankcase pressure breathing system, that is the pressure has to be sucked out of the engine via a breather pipe from the breather trap to the carb or to a breather control valve on the inlet manifold. Failure to do this will result in excessive oil leaks from the rear of the engine
If you are using the gearbox as well this is externally identical to the 1098 box with closer ratio gears and automatic reversing light switch.
Last edited by mike.perry on Fri Nov 28, 2008 4:58 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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that's what I thought until I tried it - top speed is limited by the standard diff, but torque up hills was great (basically it didn't get slowed by some serious hills). The smaller carb will limit top revs but gives better torque.The standard Minor carb is much too small and would not allow the engine to run properly at all.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

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I have twin 1 1/4 carbs on my Traveller and I would say that unless you are a devotee of the classic twin carb setup then I wouldn't bother. They are probably more trouble than they are worth and I have yet to detect any real performance benefit. I would say that for instant gratification you would be better off with an HIF 44 on a decent inlet manifold.
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HIF 44 is ideal for a 1275! An HIF 38 can be used of course - but it will run out of steam at high revs. The whole beauty of the SU carb is that the choke area is variable - and so at low/medium revs the piston only opens as far as necessary - and so the conditions are ideal across a wide rev range. This of course assumes the carb is set up correctly for the intended use - and different springs can be fitted above the piston to regulate how much it opens for given air flow - and different oils can be used in the damper to regulate how quickly the piston lifts when the throttle is suddenly opened. The main advantage of the HIF over earlier SUs is the float arrangement which allows it to be used over a range of mounting angles - and pretty much eliminates any surging or spluttering when cornering !


