Morris Minor Owners Club

hi all i have just got a water...oil...and amp clocks can some one tell
me how to fit them to my morris .do i need pipes for the oil clock.where
do i fit it to.where do the wires go to for the amp clock thanks very much
terry

OIL GAUGE...you probably have a length of plastic tube
to carry the oil. This passes through the bulkhead and
has to be teed into the oil pressure switch take off(this
is just to the rear of the distributor)You need a Tpiece
which will accept the oil pipe take off and also accept the
original switch. You must make sure that where the pipe
passes through the bulkhead it is protected from scuffing
on the hole and wearing through with disastrous results!
Water Temp.....does it have a metal pipe permanently
fixed to the gauge?? Or just electrical connectors?
If it is electrical then you need a suitable sender unit
which screws into a socket just forward of no. 1 spark
plug (hopefully there is a large blanking bolt there). The
live feed to the gauge is taken from the Voltage Stabiliser
which sits on the rear of the speedo unit. You MUST take
the feed from the LIGHT GREEN terminal.
AMMETER......important to wire it properly, with no chance
of dodgy contact etc. Your starter solonoid will
have a thick lead from the battery going to it, you will
find a thinner BROWN lead on the same terminal. This
brown lead carries the supply to the WHOLE car except
the starter motor. remove this brown lead and extend
it to reach one side of the ammeter,then connect the other
terminal of the ammeter back to where the original brown
lead was connected. If the ammeter reads the wrong
way round then swop over the leads at the rear of the
instrument. When you are extending the Brown leads it is
important that you use wire of the same thickness as the
original.

I'll try and get a picture of the oil press. gauge connection arrangement at the engine block end.
As an addition to Willie's post I would suggest using suitable grommets on anything that passes through the bulkhead from the engine bay into the car and vice versa, or utilise the existing ones without damaging or stressing them.
Make sure all the connections on the ammeter wiring are tight and insulated.

thanks to all who gave me help i now have water amp &oil clocks
working thanks terry

Willie wrote:Water Temp.....does it have a metal pipe permanently
fixed to the gauge?? Or just electrical connectors?
If it is electrical then you need a suitable sender unit
which screws into a socket just forward of no. 1 spark
plug (hopefully there is a large blanking bolt there). The
live feed to the gauge is taken from the Voltage Stabiliser
which sits on the rear of the speedo unit. You MUST take
the feed from the LIGHT GREEN terminal.

I know this is an old post but Willie or anyone else:
Does the live feed for this instrument really have to be from the voltage reg ? The instructions with my guage didn't say where from, just 'an ignition controlled + feed' What are the effects of just doing exactly that and ignoring the voltage reg ? I have a suspicion that the temp will rise and fall depending on the output of the alternator.... am I right AND a pillock?

Does the live feed for this instrument really have to be from the voltage reg ?

Really, yes, (like the fuel gauge) otherwise the readings will fluctuate with the engine revs. Using the regulated output solves this problem.

shymoggie wrote:am I right AND a pillock?

cam wrote:Really, yes

Cheers Cam !!!!!!

Now you're twisting my words!!!

So, having twisted some worms ;) ...... as my car has all green wires on the stabiliser (thanks Willie) the same delightful shade of.... errrrrm...... green.... which one do I use ? The fuel guage one ?

yes

I know this seems really stupid but.......

Re-wired my temp guage (tim superdash model) in the appropriate way, using the voltage stabilizer and it all goes very wrong !

As soon as the guage tried to move it developed a stutter, with the needle bouncing up and down from rest to its first measurement.

If I feed it from an ignition live source it's fine..... any ideas anyone ? Do you think it has a stabiliser within it ? When you test it (earth the sender wire) it fires up fine

Confused....again......

Might be a dodgy connection or a duff voltage regulator. If it bounces around then it's getting intermittent power.

ello jimbo, ive got the same bouncing needle problem,did u sort it ,if so how?,cheers mate

Yo Steve,

Sorted, sort of !! I am running the guage straight off an ignition live insted of the stabilizer. Seems okay now.. checked that it read properly with all electrics on... then off..... then revving it... then almost stall idling it and it doesn't seem to be bothered - so neither am i !! ;)

That is because the fuel gauges work on the thermo(heat) principal
so do not respond quickly to changes in voltage so you do not
get sudden needle movements when the voltage varies which it is
doing now that you have by passed the stabilizer.

The voltage stabiliser gives out around 10v, the battery 12/13v, depending whether it is on or off charge. Running the gauge directly from the battery will produce innacurately high readings.

Can you try another stabiliser?