Morris Minor Owners Club

While I'm having trouble with spraing and the weather isn't really at it's best I thought I might have a go at hand painting a few parts and see how it works out.
I know it's usually 50:50 celly paint and thinners for spraying but what sort of viscousity ratio d'you think I should use for brushing?

Well, with Rustoleum I use 20% white spirit and a 4" foam roller. If you look at mt thread "Smoothed out bootlid" in this section you can see the result.

What probs are you having spraying, other than the ambient!! I had hell and all problems at first. needs a thin glance over, let it go tacky,then the main paint has something to hang on to. The temptation is very great to put on too much in the first go-runs, curtains etc. Not much fun this time of year, whereas the synthetic I've been using last week seems to love the cool, as long as there's a wind it dries like the washing!!

LINEARAUDIO wrote:What probs are you having spraying, other than the ambient!! I had hell and all problems at first. needs a thin glance over, let it go tacky,then the main paint has something to hang on to. The temptation is very great to put on too much in the first go-runs, curtains etc. Not much fun this time of year, whereas the synthetic I've been using last week seems to love the cool, as long as there's a wind it dries like the washing!!

I know what you mean, I did most of my spraying in June and the a warmish day in September. Did the last few bits late October early November and it dries much slower

Yes -but you don't get those suicidal ruddy thunder flies this time of year. Thinking about it, wasn't hot enough for them in mid "summer" this year!!

Thats true, every cloud has a silver lining!!

Really not advisable to try brush painting cellulose - other than for tiny chip filling.

I rollered two back wings in celly, it was really easy, and I got a "nice", orange peel finish. The real key was to go slowly as if you get air bubbles into it they burst and make little craters.

It is an absolute swine to flatten afterwards. you have to build a really thick layer and then flatten back to a smooth finish.

I bought a cheap HVLP set and did the front wings in around a quarter of the time. Isn't it a bit cold and damp to be spraying now unless you've a good heated garage?

It is possible to brush/roller celly, but it takes quite a while to get a good finish. I used about 75/25 paint to thinners IIRC. with around 50/50 for the final few coats.

Andrew

Apparently it is possible to get a decent smooth finish straight from the brush with celly if you have a top quality brush and years of practice. Us mere mortals with B&Q paintbrushes have to settle for slapping loads on and flatting it back.

I thought that the old 'coachworks' companies used a brushing cellulose which takes longer to dry? Halfords used to sell small (500ml) tins of a similar paint but limited in the range of colours.
Any 'rollering' I have done on internal doors etc (oil based) have been finished off with a Purdy paint brush (long fine haired) to pull out the orange peely/bubbled finish that can be left, The roller is only used for applying the paint thinly and evenly.
This process can leave a very good finish.

They didn't use cellulose - they used a special coach enamel. I have used it - on Morris 8E some 45 years ago. It worked well - took a loooonng time to dry and tended to attract dust in the process. But it was nice and shiny and didn't cost a fortune!

Coach enamel can still be bought at reasonable prices from noat yards. They use it to paint the pretty bits on canal barges etc. I am considering this option on my next project as I used it last year to paint a Landrover and it came out quite good (for a Landrover anyway)

I once worked in a motor factors (30 years ago!) we used to 'mix' coach paint...you had to put driers in it.

I mixed several mixes without driers oops!! i didn't last too long

Mr Parry wasn't pleased

alanworland wrote:I thought that the old 'coachworks' companies used a brushing cellulose which takes longer to dry? Halfords used to sell small (500ml) tins of a similar paint but limited in the range of colours...
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I've still got the remains of a tin of vintage brushing celloluse, it's definitely celly, not enamel, but slower drying. As BMC said, using ordinary mix celly for brushing is a bugger as it starts drying as you brush. I like the idea of rollering, can imagine flatting the orange peel though. My first efforts spraying with my HVLP plant I used the paint too thick, then of course put some more on to level it out ( I know it doesn't!!). Ended up with serious orange peel that could have warranted a DA to flat it with

Now you mention it markc I seem to remember we had a little tin of clear that we had to mix into the coach enamel just before we applied it. And then the whole car had to painted in one go. It worked well, a lovely deep Maroon - I remember being quite proud of it!!

I used Tekaloid coach enamel to start with on my car. But never did get the hang of brushing, plus you can't cut back Tekaloid. Then came Rustoleum. Brilliant stuff. You put it on with a 4" foam roller. When you get mix right, about 20% white spirit, it just flows out. If you get air bubbles you just lightly blow on it and the majority of them disapear. You can also cut it back like cellulose, then polish and Bobs yer uncle.<br><br><br><br>

Yes in those days it was common,there was a massive range of colours and we mixed coachpaint and celly. .2 pack had only just come in then.

It was hard work,i remember mixing Geenall Whitley green and Post office red by the gallon....and going home high off the fumes!

And making up number plates with numbers that pressed in and fixed with studs....happy days......NOT!!!!

wanderinstar wrote:I used Tekaloid coach enamel to start with on my car. But never did get the hang of brushing, plus you can't cut back Tekaloid. Then came Rustoleum. Brilliant stuff. You put it on with a 4" foam roller. When you get mix right, about 20% white spirit, it just flows out. If you get air bubbles you just lightly blow on it and the majority of them disapear. You can also cut it back like cellulose, then polish and Bobs yer uncle.<br><br><br><br>

Wanderinstar- I love the dual purpose patio cum paintshop!! How do you get the filler dust off your plants? Thats always my problem!

not really the time for spraying this weather/year unless you have heating in the garage overnight. you can't brush celly on big areas as it dosn't flow long enough, even when it is colder you will risk the chance of the paint blooming.also blooming can still affect synthetic as well, if someone has sprayed synthetic and its not bloomed then they were very lucky. if you used enamel /synthetic paint for brushing i would use a hamleton perfection plus , but remember a new brush needs priming first against a brick wall or a 80g sanding disc to get all the loose hairs from the head stock. if you wanted any help on spraying look on my thread in the sticky hint and tips section

just remember when choosing a paint brush cheap ones don't work for brushing cars, if you wanted a good finish you need to be spending around 15 to 20 quid per brush as the saying goes for this type of thing .... you only get what you pay for.