Morris Minor Owners Club

I have obtained a reasonable fit but can't get a good close of the right hand door,it doesn't close tight enough letting the rain in

Advice needed on adjustment of the sockets at the top and bottom of the frame and the plates, which I assume prevent damage to the door frame.

The door frame is square

Many thanks for help

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The top (black )bracket should normally be rebated into the top rail, this will take up the discrepency of fit.

Or if you don't want to do that - just pack out the silver bracket holding the rod with a thin spacer. But it does want to be a good 'tight' fit - to stop rattles!

millerman wrote:The door frame is square

There's the problem then - should be rectangular

Thanks for advice, it seems quite simple

Andrew, I will check whether the rear opening is, indeed, a square or rectangle but the diagonal measurements are equal

Individual doors are rectangular - the whole apperture is square. think Andrew "may" have been a bit "tongue in cheek"

Colin, I've got a new top rail here for mine if you want to take measurements. It has the recess already in it.

Emmerson

The one in the picture has a recess too - but it seems it is in the wrong place ?

Will get my trusty sharp chisel and cut a rebate, I really need to get the door to close tightly on the rubber seal.

I do appreciate Andrew's sense of humour, is"dry" a good description?? Should have used appropriate smilies

Emmerson, I should be going to Blaenavon later this week, will call to see how the "operation" is progressing on your Trav

Cheers for now

The one in the picture has a recess too - but it seems it is in the wrong place ?

I`m sure that one should be there as well, I will have a look this evening.

Had a look at mine just now - it is exactly as per the picture above - recessed on the underside and NOT on the face with black bracket. My doors shut tight - maybe you just need to compress the rubber seals some more!

They should be both recessed BM

I think the problem is,maybe, the right hand door need raising to make better contact with the rubber seal. To do this I will make and glue ash dowels into the original holes and the re-drill the holes.

See what you make of the photo re raising the door.

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Only one recess on mine

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The top (black )bracket should normally be rebated into the top rail, this will take up the discrepency of fit.

I am having trouble understanding this bit (my woodwork skills are iffy to say the least )
To my mind rebating the bracket would mean that the door would be sticking even further out.
With my doors both have a thin strip attached to the top of the doors to give a waterproof seal also the original profile quadrant will not fit between the doors and has been replaced with an oblong section strip which still allows a leak between the doors as it was impossible to close the doors with the quadrant, the quadrant is fitted to the opening.
So Jonathon in my case any suggestions what is wrong as I am at a loss as to what else to do as the doors require a nudge to close them and they are not loose so to speak. Here are the pictures of my brackets the bottom one is rebated on both sides.

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Well - mine came to me as it is 8 + years ago - and the doors have always closed well and no water leaks there - except perhaps in the very wettest conditions - but the car lets in everywhere then !
I would say from the various comments above - it looks like standard supply for that top rail is for it be NOT rebated for the black bracket.

Well we can only speak from experience can we not. Looking at the current travellers we have in and have worked on I'd say that the majority have had a slight recess 3-5mm approx. Maybe it depends on the timber supplier, there are 3 or 4 to choose from.
In Colins case a rebate or shim as BM suggests would solve his issue. With Kevins I'm not sure as to why the doors close so close to the rear frame, they are normally a tight fit with new seals fitted. Not sure if the rear hinges could be adjusted or even spaced to set the doors off the pillar.

Compared to mine (which as far as I know is original) it looks like the striker plate needs moving forward.
I assume this must mean plugging the existing holes, maybe deepening the rebate at the back, drilling new pilot holes in the wood and refitting.
Just a thought.


Leo

Millerman, you'd be welcome here for coffee if its before 10am Thursday. After that we're off in the caravan for 10 days. Poems and Pints night in the Hall on 28th Nov. See you there,perhaps?