Hey folks
When I fitted the Aldon ignitor electronic ignition I noted in the fitting documents it said that Smiths Electronic Revcounters with various part numbers didn't work correctly with it - but some of them could be modified.
I've got one of them - the 1003 series rev counter - which they indicated could be modified to work correctly. Anyone know what mods it needs (I didn't get any joy out of them last time I tried mailing).
I did have it connected - and it worked okayish at low revs, but after about 3k rpm the needle liked to drop randomly downwards (well, you have to know whether it really won't work!). It's now disconnected and languishing at 0 in my dash, which doesn't cheer me up.... I like my toys ;)
Aldon Ignitor and Smiths Rev Counter
Forum rules
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
-
- Minor Addict
- Posts: 986
- Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 10:22 pm
- Location: Washington State, US.
- MMOC Member: No
Aldon Ignitor and Smiths Rev Counter
Pyoor Kate
The Electric Minor Project
The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
1974 & 1975 Daf 44s, 1975 Enfield 8000 EV, 1989 Yugo 45, 1981 Golf Mk1, 1971 Vauxhall Viva, 1989 MZ ETZ 125, 1989 Volvo Vario 340, 1990, 1996 & 1997 MZ/Kanuni ETZ 251s
Desires:
Trabant 601, Tatra T603, Series II Landy, Moskvitch-401, Vincent HRD Black Shadow, Huge garage, Job in Washington State.
The Electric Minor Project
The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
1974 & 1975 Daf 44s, 1975 Enfield 8000 EV, 1989 Yugo 45, 1981 Golf Mk1, 1971 Vauxhall Viva, 1989 MZ ETZ 125, 1989 Volvo Vario 340, 1990, 1996 & 1997 MZ/Kanuni ETZ 251s
Desires:
Trabant 601, Tatra T603, Series II Landy, Moskvitch-401, Vincent HRD Black Shadow, Huge garage, Job in Washington State.
-
- Series MM Registrar
- Posts: 10183
- Joined: Sun Jul 24, 2005 11:39 pm
- Location: Reading
- MMOC Member: No
-
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2147
- Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 9:10 pm
- Location: Oxford, UK
- MMOC Member: Yes
Kate,
Speedy Cables will help you on this. They can fit the later electronics into your case. I have one of the universal Smiths rev counters, with the settable red line, from the late 60's and it worked fine with the Ignitor, but it always showed lower revs when 'hot' than 'cold' - either very warm weather, or at night with the lights on. Ah, said Speedy Cables, that's because at night the calibration potentiometer sits immediately under the illumination bulb and gets warmed up by it, the same as on a sunny day! Send it to us and we'll replace the electronics and it will be consistent - I did and still have the same problem!
They also said that they were surprised that I was not having any problems with the old rev counter and the Ignitor.
That was all about 8 years ago, and it still works perfectly, just underreads by about 10% when warm!
Here's their link:
http://www.speedycables.com/
Speedy Cables will help you on this. They can fit the later electronics into your case. I have one of the universal Smiths rev counters, with the settable red line, from the late 60's and it worked fine with the Ignitor, but it always showed lower revs when 'hot' than 'cold' - either very warm weather, or at night with the lights on. Ah, said Speedy Cables, that's because at night the calibration potentiometer sits immediately under the illumination bulb and gets warmed up by it, the same as on a sunny day! Send it to us and we'll replace the electronics and it will be consistent - I did and still have the same problem!
They also said that they were surprised that I was not having any problems with the old rev counter and the Ignitor.
That was all about 8 years ago, and it still works perfectly, just underreads by about 10% when warm!
Here's their link:
http://www.speedycables.com/
Richard

Did you ever 'prove' their point - by disconnecting the illumination bulb ? A change to an LED would maybe sort it out too - if that really IS the reason for the change of reading. Other option would be to have that bulb ON all the time - and calibrate it that way. Then no change warm or cool/ day or night!



-
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2147
- Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 9:10 pm
- Location: Oxford, UK
- MMOC Member: Yes