Morris Minor Owners Club

Hello all,

I hope to be changing my starter switch at the weekend (where the solenoid in a later car would be)

How do I go about this? How does the cable from the pull switch inside attach to the actual switch?

Hope someone can shed some light on the matter

I'm sure someone will come along with pretty photos and diagrams, but basically its a cable pull against a spring inside the starter switch itself. The cable pulls a spring loaded plate across the battery/starter contacts to make the circuit. It's all wrapped it much insulation because of the amps involved.

The switch istelf 'spans' the bulkhead if you see what I mean. On the engine side is the two terminals for the battery and starter leads (and the little push button that you can use to start it manually - it merely pushes the plate against the spring instead of pulling - although I'd recommend using something insulated), on the other side is a 'U' shaped bracket where the vertical parts of the 'U' are about 20mm and the bottom of the 'U' is about 50mm. The pull switch cable shroud is anchored on one of the verticals, and the part of the switch body that comes through the hole in the bulkhead is screwed to the other end. The cable then attaches with a screw fitting similar to the choke attachment to the carb to the spring loaded 'pull' that pokes through the centre. It's much simpler that it sounds!

Quite easy to replace once you've got whatever glove box/instruments/soundproofing you've got behind the steering wheel out of the way! Personally I'd remove the steering wheel for better access as the screws holding the cable on mine where a b****r to get loose.

Hope this is of some help.

Doesn't sound too hard.. I'll give that a try at the weekend! Thanks

Make sure you get it aligned - its a bit embarrassing to have to take off the steering wheel and take out the glove box at the side of the road with the starter stuck on! (been there.....)

I'll try

Is there a lot of playing with tensioning the cable involved?

Obviously - disconnect the battery before 'starting' on this ! Also - if it sticks ON at the side of the road - battery disconnect again PDQ!

I am aware that there is the need to disconnect... I'd rather not have a small fire or for that matter 30 odd Amps through my hands.

12 volts won't worry you - but yes high fire risk - indeed battery explosion risk. High discharge can force hydrogen from the battery - then a spark and ................

I found it pretty easy to get the tension right - it's a short piece of cable. Also you can obviously check it plenty of times with the ign off and battery discontected to see that the starter knob is creating minimal tension on the switch with the knob 'in' and that it returns quickly and smoothly on the spring once you pull and release. If there is any 'catch' in the pull or return I'd do the following:
1. pull the small arm on the starter switch in the bulkhead. If this is not smooth both out and backin, or it sticks, then you probably need another switch. Dismantling them is not an option. I think I have a spare if you hit this snag! The only other problem I've heard of is when the plate inside detaches from the pull arm, so you pull the starter knob and nothing happens. You can check this if someone pushes gently on the pin between the terminals on the engine side while you pull the starter cable. Your assistant should feel the plate being pulled away from them.
2. some 3-in-1 down the cable
3. some 3-in-1 on the rod that's visible when the knob is pulled out
....if the above doesn't work...
4. hit it with a hammer
5. hit someone else with a hammer
6. wish you'd left the bl**dy thing alone and turn to drink.

Clearly doing 2 & 3 would be a good idea anyway while you on with it, and 6 is a good base plan for most activities.

I have got another switch. It is a new one, so lets hope it lasts for the year

Thanks for your help.