Starting up a 1970 Minor

Post by **jaxonedy** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 7:49 pm

I have just finished body and have turned attention to starting,engine turning over well but not firing

1st fault -no fuel to carb, fuelpump not clicking

2nd fault -no spark at plugs,(new dis cap,points cond and rotor)can these 2 faults be related, i am new to the Minor experience, if not any tips to locate the probs
Thanks, great forum

Post by **alzax3** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 7:59 pm

If the pump is getting power, it may well be stuck, or the contacts aren't doing they're job - may respond to a sharp tap on the side with a hammer handle - will probably need further investigation...

Place to start with lack of spark - have you put the two wires (coil connection and condensor) above or below the insulator? If they're earthing down the post to the body of the distributer rather than into the contact spring, you'll kill the spark very nicely (ask me how I know

)

Post by **jaxonedy** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 8:02 pm

Good tip
Will check asap
Thanks

Post by **Dean** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 8:31 pm

alzax3 wrote:
Place to start with lack of spark - have you put the two wires (coil connection and condensor) above or below the insulator? If they're earthing down the post to the body of the distributer rather than into the contact spring, you'll kill the spark very nicely (ask me how I know )

Easily done.... I am guilty of this myself, infact just yesterday!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sun Oct 26, 2008 8:35 pm

Check for power to fuel pump - if present then you can try the 'tapping' - but really the points need cleaning. Take cover off and pull fine wet/dry through the points gap.
For sparks - check if power getting to coil - then check through the points etc. May seem daft - but is there a rotor arm in the dizzy ? And is the little carbon brush present and correct in the dizzy cap ?

Post by **jaxonedy** » Thu Oct 30, 2008 9:13 pm

Success
Tensioned the spring contact on the fuel pump, and cleaned the points
Tidied the LT wires
Fired up on 3rd try
Now to fit air cleaner bits and cables, adjust and let it run
Reckoned to be 1st time in 5/6 years

Checked compressions 160/160/160/150 are they ok?

If so Minors are very durable

Cant wait to paint it
Thanks again

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Oct 30, 2008 9:49 pm

Yes - these compressions are actually pretty good for a standard motor. Well done !

Post by **Onne** » Fri Oct 31, 2008 10:53 am

Well done!

Post by **alzax3** » Fri Oct 31, 2008 6:21 pm

Ditto!

Post by **jaxonedy** » Sat Nov 01, 2008 1:38 pm

Thanks again for the help

Another question- I did not dismantle the car-Now the car is running but the throttle cable is now connected but does not auto return,is there a spring on the carb or elsewhere to return it?

Again I have limited knowledge of the SU carb, a photo would be great to show the choke/throttle linkages, I have a Haynes but surprise not a help
Ta again

Post by **alex_holden** » Sat Nov 01, 2008 3:50 pm

There's supposed to be a spring from where the cable attaches to the carb down to a bracket on one of the exhaust manifold to downpipe clamp bolts.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Nov 01, 2008 8:01 pm

Download the proper manual from here http://www.morris-1000.co.uk/ Plenty more pictures and diagrams - much better than Haynes Book of Lies!

Post by **jaxonedy** » Sun Nov 02, 2008 8:46 am

Thanks again
Please watch this space for more questions
Cheers

Post by **jaxonedy** » Mon Nov 03, 2008 7:37 pm

Hello again
Another question for the helpfull experts-front suspension this time
When I jack up one side the king pin? drops about a half inch, and is leaking fluid can I ask which parts possibly need changed,I have prices the kpins,but am on a tight budget

Alsoo there is a cable coming through the bulkhesd, believe it is from the heater
Any idea how it connects or to what, as I did not dismantle i am lost
Thanks
again

Post by **Stig** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 3:24 pm

Sounds like you need a new kingpin and lower trunion, take the trunion off and examine the kingpin's threads. Worth doing this on both sides if one is that bad. You may well have read on here that new kingpins have been unavailable for about a year but are promised for December. Good luck!

There's a push-pull control under the dash that controls a heater valve to the rear of the rocker cover.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 8:53 pm

Don't understand the 'leaking fluid' - it will have old/hard grease in the threads unless someone has tried to free it off by soaking in oil. If it drops that far - beware -if you drive the car it could drop right off - and the wheel then buckles up under the wing.

Post by **jaxonedy** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 8:57 pm

Thanks for the info,
What is the chance of a second hand k/pin, or are they difficult to find as well
Cheers

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Nov 04, 2008 9:11 pm

Most are guarding them carefully! You may find that you can just renew the bottom trunnion and that will take up ~ half the wear and may keep you going for a while! It is also possible (I believe) to have the worn thread on the king-pin built up with metal spraying and then re-cut back to new condition. My own experiences with metal spraying in my industrial past were all hopeless failures - and so I would have zero faith in this, but the process may have improved over the years!